Varilight Dimmer Project

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Berkshire
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Hi, I am a rank amateur at electrics, let's be honest. But thought I could manage to replace a couple of traditional switches with remote control dimmer switches. I mean, how hard can it be? I live in a brand new house so I assumed that the wiring would be simple to understand. I have read the instructions and had a go with some unusual results and I am still mystified. I would really really appreciate any help you could give me as I suspect that this is a simple job once I crack the logic.

I thought the bedroom would be quite straightforward - replacing a single light switch with a 1 way remote control dimmer. However, on removing the existing switch, I am confronted with different names on the back of the existing switch to those on the new switch. I find 3 grey sheathed cables - each with a blue, brown and earth wire. All 3 blues are terminated in a connecting block. All 3 earths are also terminated into a connecting block. Of the brown wires, 2 are wired together into 'Common' and the other is wired into 'L1'. The dimmer switch has Load (~/), Slave (S) and Live (downward arrow). What is meant to go where on the new dimmer? I tried the 2 combinations of Load and Live last night and one way the light continually gradually brightened and dimmed alternately without any human intervention. The other way seemed to work until I screwed the face plate back and then started behaving similarly.

The downstairs job I thought would be a bit trickier as it is a 2 way. I now know, having read other posts on this (and contrary to the advice from B&Q) that I need a specialist slave switch and not just a standard switch to accompany the master. The living room has the following behind the face plate - 4 grey sheathed wires. 3 of these have the standard blue, brown and earth, and 1 has grey, black, brown and earth. 3 of these grey sheathed cables appear to be doing nothing with the 3 blues and 3 browns all wired together respectively in a connecting block, and all the earths (including the one from the 4th grey cable) are wired together in a connecting block . The final grey cable has the black wire going to L1, the grey wire to L2 and the brown wire to Common. Again, what needs to go where on the new dimmer switch?

The dining room is the slave I am guessing as it just has a single cable with grey, black, brown and earth - configured in same way as the living room. I'll figure this one out once I sus the living room wiring out and buy the necessary slave.

I would really really appreciate any help with this - I've got a brand new house with light switches hanging off here there and everywhere and I'd hate a little job like this to beat me.
 
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In the bedroom, the two browns together go into live, the brown on its own into load, and nothing in slave, blues stay in connector block.

Sorry, got to go, will answer the rest of your question in a couple of hours
 
Thanks, you star. I'll go and give it a go now.

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Well I've tried that and it doesn't seem to work. The light alternately dims and brightens. It also won't switch off. It will go off, but then comes back on immediately very dim.

These are similar symptoms to last night and I used the second of the 2 dimmer switches that I bought today so it would seem unlikely that it was down to a fault in both switches.

Does anyone have an idea of what might be going wrong?
 
This could be completly wrong, but...

What to the remotes work on?

I take it, there radio signals. If so, do they have switchable radio frequency channels. They may be getting radio interference
 
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I had the same problem. The wiring thats been suggested is correct, my problem turned out to be a faulty switch. Got another and it works fine now.
 
They can be trained to respond to any remote control (TV, video, etc) so what do those work on? It's a reasonable suggestion but I've not had situations where anything else in the house has behaved funny so I would assume that if something is interfering with the remote dimmer then it would also interfere with other devices that can be controlled remotely? Hmmm, not sure.

++++++++++++++++++++++

I've tried 2 separate switches now though - law of averages suggests that they shouldn't both be bad. Although they could have come from a faulty batch - think I'll get B&Q to swap them and try again.

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please note 10 a
 
Doesn't fully explain what is happening, but what is it that you are trying to dim ? Normal light bulbs are OK, but not all lighting takes kindly to being dimmed ......
 
Shocking at Electrics said:
They can be trained to respond to any remote control (TV, video, etc) so what do those work on? It's a reasonable suggestion but I've not had situations where anything else in the house has behaved funny so I would assume that if something is interfering with the remote dimmer then it would also interfere with other devices that can be controlled remotely? Hmmm, not sure.

Stick a piece of electrical tape over the IR sensor, the lights should stay in in the same mode, that would rule out IR interference. Although that would be a low probability.
 
cosmicnut said:
This could be completly wrong, but...

What to the remotes work on?

I take it, there radio signals. If so, do they have switchable radio frequency channels. They may be getting radio interference

Infra red usually, hence they work from most tv/video remotes etc.

The slave connection is only used in 2 way, I believe. The load is the live for the light fitting and the live is as it says the live feed from the lighting radial.
 
After leaving it alone for a bit, I thought I had it working. Have taught it to respond to a spare remote that I have. But now it won't turn off. If I turn it off, it goes off then immediately comes back on again at a very low level. This thing is driving me mad. I think I might have to give up on the idea of a remote control dimmer and stick to a normal one.
 
Shocking at Electrics said:
After leaving it alone for a bit, I thought I had it working. Have taught it to respond to a spare remote that I have. But now it won't turn off. If I turn it off, it goes off then immediately comes back on again at a very low level. This thing is driving me mad. I think I might have to give up on the idea of a remote control dimmer and stick to a normal one.

I have two in my bedrooms that work without problem. Do they work from the touch sensors?

Wiring info here http://www.varilight.co.uk/index tech2.htm
 
The touch sensor response is the same as when operating remotely - it kind of works and in it will go brighter and dimmer when you instruct it ... but it will also do it of its own accord. And if you turn it off it will only come on at minimum brightness which it normally does on it's own. ie. I can't really turn it off. I've given up for now and put my old switch on before darkness is upon me. I've also emailed Varilight.
 
thought I could manage to replace a couple of traditional switches with remote control dimmer switches. I mean, how hard can it be.

Well shocking at electrics it's a damm sight harder than you can cope with.Stick with your day job mate and get the experts in.
 
I've just fitted a dimmer light in my son's bedroom and, though its a different make to yours, it works on a one button principle:

Press once for on
Press once for off
Hold down to cycle through the dimming up then down

The button on the remote control and the button on the light itself both work exactly the same. Given the description you have of what's going on, and that you seem to have it wired properly, could you either have a button stuck in on the light switch, or a buggered remote. Have you tried taking the remote control out of the room ?

Also, it recommends leaving the light powered for at least a minute after installation before pressing buttons, as otherwise it goes into some crazy flashing mode. Try losing the power to the lighting circuit for a minute or two, then try again.

Hope this helps.....
 

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