Veritas R8Plus - no power to RKPs and PIRs?

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Long time reader, first time poster!

We've had no issues with our Veritas R8 system that we inherited when we moved in two years ago. We have used the alarm all of three times for holidays so it's barely been used anyway.

Set the alarm on Thursday afternoon as we were away for the night. Alarm set with no issues and was happily beeping away as we locked the door. However when we got back the following evening the alarm didn't beep as we walked in. We soon discovered that the two remote keypads we have and all the sensor are showing no lights or any activity.

However, the main box in the garage has a steady green light showing. The main fuse box was fine, and when I flicked it off this morning the green light started blinking, implying to me that the battery backup had kicked in.

I get the impression that there is a power supply issue to the PIRs and RKPs but I can't figure out how. I've checked the fuse on the main box for 'Remote Keypads' and it looks fine. I even swapped it with the 'Aux/Speaker' fuse to see if that could help, but no joy.I took a picture if that helps, as I only have a very basic knowledge but I'm not afraid of giving it a go myself:

Alarm_close_up.jpg


Can anybody help?

Thanks in advance,

Ben
 
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Multimeter job , set on dc check aux output and keypad output , should be around 13.0 v dc
 
with sparkymarka on this.

clearly you have mains power and battery power to the panel from what you have said, so the issue is with supply to the rest of the board keypads and pirs.

all the fuses are rated, in your case they are banded for easy reference. I doubt you will have the spare pack of fuses that would have been supplied with the unit.

Looking at fuses isnt always easy to determine the state of them, best to do a continuity check.

The aux /speaker fuse is used for your pirs, so if that fuse has gone (pirs not working), swapping it to test the keypad isnt going to work and vice versa.

saying that, i am surprised that both went together, so theres a power fuse to check on the board, wait to here results of your tests.
 
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An easy way to check a fuse in situ, without having to take it out and potentially down-power whatever it is protecting, is to have your multimeter set to 'volts' and to measure across the fuse. If the fuse is good, there should be (almost) no volts as the fuse is a short circuit across the meter. If the fuse is blown, you should see the supply voltage (as sparkymarka says, thirteen-and-a-bit volts).
 

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