Vertical crack on external brick wall

[jimtg_90]

Hi,

We are in the process of buying a house but I've noticed a couple of cracks in the external brick walls which are a bit concerning.

The first is on the side wall of the house below a window. It is about 1.3m long and goes through bricks and mortar, it is about 4mm wide at the widest points (towards the top). It extends down to the level of another small window/vent and doesn't go down to the ground. The windows of the house have all been replaced (probably in the last 5 years) so I'm wondering whether it could have happened then or whether this is a structural issue?

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The second crack is a stepped crack through mortar above a new door (in the last 5 years) at the back of the house.

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The house is a reposession so we have no history from the current owners.

Do you think this is a serious problem? Any ideas of what repair would involve/cost?

Thanks a lot in advance

Jamie

 

[tony1851]

The crack over the patio doors could be the usual problem which occurs when replacement windows/doors are fitted where there is no pre-existing llintel.
It would need a new lintel installing - fairly straightforward.

The crack on the side looks a little more ominous - possibly suggestive of subsidence. Looks to be on-going as it has been repointed.

 

[jimtg_90]

Thanks

We're getting a homebuyers survey tomorrow so will hopefully find out a bit more info

It looks like there may have been some sort of work done sometime ago on the drains below the crack as it appears to have been re-concreted at some point

Not sure if you can tell from this picture

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Is there any other investigation that you think should be done other than the survey?

Do you think this is something we should walk away from the house for or potentially worth renegotiating the price or get covered by insurance if possible?? View media item 70101

 

[Architexeter]

Agree with Tony, the side which has been repointed and it has moved again looks concerning. Homebuyer report will probably just point out that it appears to be ongoing and not historical movement and advise further investigations.

It could be related to the drainage, I'd recommend investigating further prior to purchasing unless you are happy to assume worst case and get it at a price that reflects that.

 

[KenGMac]

Question?

Any "disturbance of finishes internally on the Gable?"

The crack above the patio door can be remedied by a new lintel or possible think of a "Helibar repair" Google this and see what you think?

The gable? because the crack has Re-0occureoccurred indicate that there is some Subsidence activity? BUT because the crack does no get to ground level could indicate that the crack has been caused by some other reason?

The "Acid test" for Subsidence is the one used by the Insurers [OK A lot of contributors do not like Insurers and Subsidence] but is I believe a valid test that is that Subsidence is the vertical downward movement of the foundations.

Given the position of the crack on the gable? it does not run down to the ground could we be looking at a "thermal / moisture" movement problem?

If there is any "internal damage" then lets find out?

Helibar should stop a non Subs related external brick problem?

Ken

 

[tony1851]

Re the gable crack. Although not apparent at first glance, it is possible that it actually goes down to the ground.

If you magnify the second pic down, you can just about see a crack making its way across towards the top of the opening for the coal store (?) just off the pic.
The crack will always find the route of least resistance,and the left-hand side of the lower opening is that route.

If the crack is wider at the top, and gradually thins off lower down, that is a sign of rotation of the foundation - in this case downwards towards the photographer.

OP really needs an SE to look at it rather than a surveyor. If it was an old crack any subsidence might have stopped, and a few helibars would tidy it up. But the fractured pointing suggests all might not be well.

Personally I'd either walk away, or re-negotiate.

 

[MidsTW]

You have received some good advice!!

As stated the home-buyers report will identify that there is an issue (likely to be a condition 3 rating for the side wall crack) and advise seeing a SE.

The crack above the patio doors is typical of replacement windows being fitted without the correct lintels.. if any!!!

Needs a steel/concrete lintel and can then be re bricked...not the end of the world.

 

[noseall]

I'm more puzzled by the bonding of the bricks (in reference to the re-pointed crack) as well as the extraordinary length of the horizontal toilet waste pipe.

There are a series of headers when there doesn't seem to be any need to bond the bricks this way. These headers combined with the widow reveal etc, have created a definitive 'weak pint'.

 

[Static]

There is something definitely weird about the brick bonding there.. worth getting a SE out to do a survey on the property as mentioned above..

Also could see if there are similar properties in the road and if they similar problems..

 

[jimtg_90]

Thanks for all of the advice ... clearly quite worrying then!

Do you know how much I should expect to pay for a structural engineer investigation?

Wondering whether to just pull out at this stage or pay out more on this... the house is ideal for us apart from this and good value but this is probably why.

I did have a look at other houses (including the wall directly opposite from the neighbouring house) and couldn't see any cracks anywhere else.

What do you mean about the brick bonding? (excuse my ignorance)

 

[jimtg_90]

Any "disturbance of finishes internally on the Gable?"

Not that I could see and the house has been empty for about a year so no recent covering up jobs

 

[Static]

If you only want the engineer to look at that one wall then you should be paying say £250-400+vat but if you want them to do a full structural report on the property the cost will be double..

Often it is a good bargaining point to get a survey, you can estimate costs of repairs and ask for the price to be reduced by the figure..

The bonding as Noseall says is weird.. the bonding is the way the bricks are laid, normally its uniform with only changes around openings and at ends.. the pics you should of the vertical crack show 1/2 bricks and cut bricks all over the place.. Would only work it out if you can see whats inside and age of alterations etc..

 

[jimtg_90]

I hadn't noticed that.

Looking at the first picture it seems as though the weird bonding is only around the area of the crack.

Does this mean it has been re-bricked then?

You don't think they damaged the brickwork when fitting the new windows then?

 

[wessex101]

A couple of quick observations. My money would be on on-going subsidence - possibly defective drains.

If the lintel above the patio doors was an issue I would expect to see some cracking in that soldier course long before the brickwork above. The fact that it is intact suggests to me that it is probably bonded to a concrete boot lintel.

The brick bond is a red herring. Overall it is stretcher bond but they have used cut bricks in the centre of the wall to avoid straight joints, which is common practice.

 

[jimtg_90]

Just had the surveyors report:

The main walls are formed of 300mm thick cavity brickwork. When originally constructed the walls will not have had a dry layer of insulation fitted, however, there are indications that this has been added subsequently. Legal advisers should confirm that satisfactory documentation is in place. Please see our comments below under Section I.

The cavity walls of this property are formed in two leaves which are usually held together with metal wall ties. The metal ties used in properties built before the early 1980s were prone to corrosion which, if significant, could lead to structural movement. However, no signs of wall tie failure were found and when considering the property's construction and the local environment, we consider the risk of such failure to be small. No further action is necessary at this stage although it is advisable to have the walls periodically checked, every 5 - 10 years by a registered cavity wall tie replacement company, or a chartered building surveyor.

General brickwork repairs are required in various locations, for example to minor settlement cracking over the rear door and kitchen window openings, the former having a deflected lintel which may require additional attention. There is also an expansion crack to the side elevation, underneath the stairwell window, and again brickwork repair is required here. Previous repointing have suffered from thermal shrinkage. Internally there are no signs of movement to the load bearing inner skin of the cavity brickwork walling. The cracking is considered old and generally nonprogressive, however the expansion cracking, by it's nature, may move slightly with seasonal variations, but this will be minor and would have to be accepted if you proceed with the purchase. Old rigid repairs have failed in the past, so a flexible form of sealant is recommended. Another area where brickwork attention is necessary is where the boiler flue exits the wall.

Adequate airbricks are provided to allow for ventilation beneath the suspended timber ground floor. We would stress that we cannot confirm that there are no hidden sub-floor blockages. The damp-proof course is formed of bitumastic felt, not having the full 150mm minimum recommended ground clearance in all areas, although generally performing satisfactorily.

High damp meter readings were, however, taken by the external kitchen door, and we did note that the rainwater downpipe passes beneath the conservatory in this area. It should also be appreciated that timber floors in contact with damp walls can also be prone to deterioration.

This dampness should be inspected by a suitably qualified Damp and Timber Specialist (associated to the Property Care Group) and all recommended improvements/repairs attended to. This work should be covered by long term, insurance backed guarantees.

Condition Rating 3. (Further Investigation).