Viessmann Vitodens 200

I have removed weather comp from 2 200 combis.

The customers couldn't get on with it like yourself.

The reality is it should be more efficient and offer the perfect comfort but it doesn't work for everyone. I haven't got weather comp quite simply because my wife will "randomly" require the house to be 5 deg warmer "NOW"
 
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I know a plumber who has a dial stat on the wall wired in so it clicks and the light comes on but does nothing.

There's another witless stat hidden.

His Mrs keeps moaning that when she turns the heating up to 30 it doesn't get that hot.
 
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I know a plumber who has a dial stat on the wall wired in so it clicks and the light comes on but does nothing.

There's another witless stat hidden.

His Mrs keeps moaning that when she turns the heating up to 30 it doesn't get that hot.

When I changed my dad's boiler I left the original timer in place for the hot water, and put a CM67NG in for the heating. My step mum still thinks the heating override button works :LOL:

The CM67NG is still on its original batteries :LOL:
 
That's an Awesome name for a company. My Brother called his Fairweather after being accused of being a Fairweather plumber when working for my uncle and wanting to take a Saturday off :LOL:
 
I have removed weather comp from 2 200 combis.

The customers couldn't get on with it like yourself.

The reality is it should be more efficient and offer the perfect comfort but it doesn't work for everyone. I haven't got weather comp quite simply because my wife will "randomly" require the house to be 5 deg warmer "NOW"

Phill, did you replace the control panel with a standard one, which I still have? Also did you fit wireless stats?
 
Yes and yes.

I can't remember the specifics of the wiring though which tells me it was pretty standard.
 
Yes and yes.

I can't remember the specifics of the wiring though which tells me it was pretty standard.

Thanks very much. I seem to recall fitting the WC panel required removing a link where the WC outside stat connected.
 
Thanks, I have that manual, and I used the graphs on pages 18/19 to try various different settings. Now back to Slope 1.4, level 0.
Pages 18/19? Don't you mean pages 68 to 70?

Hopefully, as a competent engineer, you have kept a record of what effect your experimental changes have had. Could you post that information?

Do you know the system design parameters - outside, flow and room temperatures? Typically, in the UK, they are -1C, 75C, 20C, which will require a slope of 2.4. Modern systems, designed to make maximum use of condensing boilers may use lower a flow temperature. Different outside and room temperatures may have been used.

Weather compensation does assume that rads have been properly sized for the heat loss. So if some of your rads are giving off much more, or less, than is required you may have difficulty setting the correct curve and offset.

You say that the outdoor sensor is "under the eaves". This is contrary to Viessmann's instructions, which say:

• North or north-western wall, 2 to 2.5m above ground level; in multi storey buildings, in the upper half of the second floor
• Not above windows, doors or ventilation outlets
• Not immediately below balconies or gutters
• Never render over
• 2-core lead, max 35m length with a cross-section of 1.5mm2

NB "second floor" is what we, in the UK, call the "first". Viessmann, like all Europe and America, call the ground floor "first".
 
Pages 18/19? Don't you mean pages 68 to 70?

Hopefully, as a competent engineer, you have kept a record of what effect your experimental changes have had. Could you post that information?

Do you know the system design parameters - outside, flow and room temperatures? Typically, in the UK, they are -1C, 75C, 20C, which will require a slope of 2.4. Modern systems, designed to make maximum use of condensing boilers may use lower a flow temperature. Different outside and room temperatures may have been used.

Weather compensation does assume that rads have been properly sized for the heat loss. So if some of your rads are giving off much more, or less, than is required you may have difficulty setting the correct curve and offset.

You say that the outdoor sensor is "under the eaves". This is contrary to Viessmann's instructions, which say:

• North or north-western wall, 2 to 2.5m above ground level; in multi storey buildings, in the upper half of the second floor
• Not above windows, doors or ventilation outlets
• Not immediately below balconies or gutters
• Never render over
• 2-core lead, max 35m length with a cross-section of 1.5mm2

NB "second floor" is what we, in the UK, call the "first". Viessmann, like all Europe and America, call the ground floor "first".

In order:

1.Instructions for altering heating curve and slope/level are on 18/19 of my Service Instructions book, (code 5351933 GB 08/2007). Pages 68 -70 refer to repairs to the boiler water temp sensor.

2. A record of adjustments was kept for various movements of both the heating curve, and slope and level when done several years ago, but as these adjustments made no useful difference, I probably discarded them.

3. Design parameters used? Have always assumed that they were set for the UK when fitted.

4. The living room radiators are the correct BTU for the room.

5. Position of outdoor sensor. This may be an issue, as the installer fitted this under the North soffit of our roof. I assume the requirement is to allow free air flow around the WC stat, but I can't imagine it would cause the temp fluctuations I have.

Thanks for taking the trouble to answer this so comprehensively.
 
You may have a faulty WC sensor. Get the ohms parameters and test at various degrees c, at the boiler PCB end.
 

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