Volt Free Output
- Thread starter jmwhooper
- Start date
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In most cases YES it is the same BUT always look at the data sheet or specification for the "volt free output"
Volt free contacts or volt free switches are invariable mechanical contacts with no electrical connection to any other part of the equipment. The contacts being open and closed mechanically by a solenoid or other device. A relay is a perfect volt free contact device as the oeprating coil is not connected to the contact(s)
Some volt free outputs use MosFet transistors or similar as output devices and these may not be totally isolated from the rest of the ciruitry of the equipment.
Bernard
Sharnbrook
Volt free contacts or volt free switches are invariable mechanical contacts with no electrical connection to any other part of the equipment. The contacts being open and closed mechanically by a solenoid or other device. A relay is a perfect volt free contact device as the oeprating coil is not connected to the contact(s)
Some volt free outputs use MosFet transistors or similar as output devices and these may not be totally isolated from the rest of the ciruitry of the equipment.
Bernard
Sharnbrook
Thanks for the description.
I have a thermostat that is powered by 12v but has a 240v 3amp volt free output.
I'll be using it to control electric under floor heating and due to that being 4amps have a separate contactor, the ufh will be powered from an rcb/fcu mains spur.
How does the volt free output of the thermostat switch the external contactor?
BTW I do have a qualified electrician coming to hook it all up but I still like to understand how it goes together.
I have a thermostat that is powered by 12v but has a 240v 3amp volt free output.
I'll be using it to control electric under floor heating and due to that being 4amps have a separate contactor, the ufh will be powered from an rcb/fcu mains spur.
How does the volt free output of the thermostat switch the external contactor?
BTW I do have a qualified electrician coming to hook it all up but I still like to understand how it goes together.
Basically volt free contacts are just that.
They are contacts which do not have any voltage on them.
This is so that you can use the contacts for what ever application you require.
An example of this is a room stat. You apply whatever voltage you require to the common terminal, and the switched terminal will output this voltage, so you can use the same stat for either 12V or 230V.
In the case of your thermostat 240V 3A is the maximum voltage and current the stat can switch.
They are contacts which do not have any voltage on them.
This is so that you can use the contacts for what ever application you require.
An example of this is a room stat. You apply whatever voltage you require to the common terminal, and the switched terminal will output this voltage, so you can use the same stat for either 12V or 230V.
In the case of your thermostat 240V 3A is the maximum voltage and current the stat can switch.
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....so for your application you would take a 6amp L&N to the supply side of the contactor and wire the UFH to the opposite terminals on the load side.
Link from the neutral on the supply side of the contactor to A1 which is the contactor coil.
Run a 1mm 3 core + earth between the contactor and the room stat.
Connect the brown to the contactor live on the supply side to the common on the stat.
Connect the black to the normally open terminal on the stat and the A2 coil terminal on the contactor. Don't forget to put some brown sleave on the black.
If your stat needs a neutral connect the grey to the neutral on the supply side of the contactor to the neutral on the stat, if not, put the grey in connector block both ends. Don't forget to sleave the grey blue.
Connect the earths boths ends. Don't forget to sleave it green/yellow
I would use a 0.5amp in-line fuse between the live feed and the common on the stat but that's because I hate the smell of burt out coils
Link from the neutral on the supply side of the contactor to A1 which is the contactor coil.
Run a 1mm 3 core + earth between the contactor and the room stat.
Connect the brown to the contactor live on the supply side to the common on the stat.
Connect the black to the normally open terminal on the stat and the A2 coil terminal on the contactor. Don't forget to put some brown sleave on the black.
If your stat needs a neutral connect the grey to the neutral on the supply side of the contactor to the neutral on the stat, if not, put the grey in connector block both ends. Don't forget to sleave the grey blue.
Connect the earths boths ends. Don't forget to sleave it green/yellow
I would use a 0.5amp in-line fuse between the live feed and the common on the stat but that's because I hate the smell of burt out coils
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