Wardrobe carcase top panel issue.

25 Jan 2006
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United Kingdom
Hi all.

I'm currently in the process of building another wardrobe (I've recently built a cloak cupboard downstairs and managed to somehow pull off a decent job of it)!
This time it's my daughter's bedroom wardrobe which will sit atop a boxed section (where the stairs below are).
I've framed out the walls and the boxed section then started to build the carcase (in 18mm MDF...those 2440x1220 sheets are blinking heavy right?)
I'll add a couple of pics of the process and I'm quite confident is should turn out pretty decent (like the cloakroom, it should hold my weight from every section, door aside) :)
As an extra touch (for the cloakroom) I added laminate flooring (looks better but also protects the MDF if anything wet ever lay on it) and mini skirting. These were tiny ends jobs, but worth it.
For shelves, I've built skeleton frames (tied into the carcase and wall) then clad. These shelves do indeed carry my own weight...after years of putting up flat pack shelving, these were a revelation.

I have a bit of an issue with the shape of the section I'm building into. The ceilings in the roofs all slant at certain parts of the room (1950's roof design). As you can see from the pic, the back section of the carcase struggles to follow the ceiling line - any tips on how I can transfer angles like this...sliding bevel in conjunction with the usual measurements?
The gap isn't an issue as the top panel will hide it. However, I'm scratching my head over ensuring that two pieces will meet neatly in the middle. I'm half guessing that I would use a sliding bevel to grab the angle then cut the sections using this angle (miter?) a little like skirting board projects?
It's not a biggy as the top bit will barely be seen (there will be a shelf in between the lower clothes section) and this will just house storage, but I'd like to at least make an attempt at getting it right (for future projects also).
I've set 2x2 battens into the ceiling (I had to use these as I used a 2x2 piece on the end where the end panel will eventually go). These are set solid (there very firm and could possibly hold my weight) but I had to use plasterboard rawls and larger screws to fix them strongly as they're only going into the PB ceiling, although I've tied them into the carcase.
With this in mind, do you think it best to use a lighter MDF (say 12mm...9mm?) or would I get away with using the spare 18mm I have left over. It's really just to finish the carcase box and hide the ceiling above (eventually the ceiling in that room will be replastered).

To finish, I've already got two pre made doors (it's a weird, tight space so I'm actually using white gloss kitchen cabinet doors) then I'll add a face panel and end panel (MFC)
Apologies it the above is a little long winded...it's just the last bit I need a bit of advice on!

Here's the pic (I've since added the side panel to the left):

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Using the circular saw as a kind of router (altering the height of the blade so it notches in)?
Take me all day mind (having to clamp a saw guide to the wood for every notch)...or maybe it's time to pick up a router.
Not a bad idea though - that sheet you've posted is a little too short, but possible to go up to the next size.

I think if I was to use the 18mm MDF as the top panel, and even though those battens (despite being screwed into the ceiling PB, though tied into the carcase) I could easily place a couple of uprights underneath them (painted in when finishing) to fully ensure they will never give.
What I'm having trouble with is the join of the two pieces - mitre angle etc. I'll have to play around with it and see what works.

Many thanks!

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