Was this acceptable practice in a loft space back in 1995?

Yes but that refers to joist supporting floors. As has been mentioned (twice in this thread already i think?) ROOF JOISTS SHOULD NOT BE DRILLED
i think you will find thats the A frame timbers that take the weight of the slate/tiled roof not the jiosts
 
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What do you mean by A-frame timbers? If roof joists don't support the roof then why are they there? just so the ceiling below has something to fix to!? Excuse my lack of correct terminology but if the rafters didn't have crossbeams ('joists') then the roof would collapse, you don't have to be a rocket scientist to figure that out. (just watch grand designs :p)

I was taught not to drill ceiling joists because they were calculated to support the weight of the roof only, unlike floor joists which are calculated differently as the final weight placed upon them could not be known. Judging by the comments of TTC, Adam151 and RF lighting they would seem to agree.
 
Would I be allowed under the part P regs to sort this mess out as its an existing installation or does it have to be a sparky?
I don't see why you can't do it tbh.
Was thinking of just making a better job of the chockblock connections and using the dragons den chocbox enclosures all located in the loft instead of the bathroom light!
You can use a chock box or use a proper junction box secured above, secure the cables to the joists before they enter the JB. Make sure you write down what goes where, even take a couple of pics before you start.
Will also stick rcd pods on the upstairs lighting mcbs to be extra safe.
Daft as it seems, modifying a circuit protective device or adding an RCD to a circuit isn't on the list of non-notifiable items hence I'm thinking that doing this would be notifiable under part P.
 
An A-frame is a basic structure designed to bear a load in a lightweight economical manner. The simplest form of an A-frame is two similarly sized beams, arranged in a 45-degree or greater angle, attached at the top. These materials are often wooden or steel beams attached at the top by rope, welding, gluing, or riveting

Its not just the joists that support the load! The crossbeams/joists are principally there to prevent the two legs/rafters of the A frame from spreading outwards at the base where they rest on the wall. The walls are bearing most of the load!

To be pedantic nobody has condoned cheese holing all the bleeding things just one small hole for cable routing if at all!



PS thanks Spark123!
 
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It still has to bear the load of the plasterboard below, and the person crawling across it.

Cables clipped to the top of ceiling joists is fine anyway.
 
Agreed, but the NICEIC link I posted refers to both floor and roof joists so it must therefore be allowed if you follow their guidelines?!
 
I think I'll carry on playing it safe anyway.

Not that I wire houses anyway, so I don't even know why I'm having this argument :LOL:
 
electricians guide to the building regulations

page 118 (approved document A) 10.1.1
 
oops looks like i was getting roof joist and rafters mixed up :oops: i stand corrected.


Still, why bother drilling joist in a loft space . . . If required to span joists then much easier to batten over and clip. Also allows insulation to sit beneath.
 
oops looks like i was getting roof joist and rafters mixed up :oops: i stand corrected.
Still, why bother drilling joist in a loft space . . . If required to span joists then much easier to batten over and clip. Also allows insulation to sit beneath.

Exactly but this wasn't done hence my original question!

I guess battening over and clipping could get in the way of laying loftboards unless you use cross battens as a lot recommend anyway rather than direct joist fix. Therein lies another debate for another day!

Seriously though, thanks to everyone for their tuppence worth over an interesting scenario. Just one question remains to be answered- how many cables are allowed into a terminal block connection- am i right in thinking two per terminal connection for safety?
 
Looking through the gil-lec website and have come across these WAGO push wire connectors that come in 2 4 6 or 8 pole versions. They look much better than chockblocks but would they fit in the chocbox enclosures ok? Sparky 123- have you any experience of them- are they any good?
 
Can't say I have used WAGO connectors.
Depends what size block as to how many wires you can fit in, a couple of 1.5mm or 1mm per side for a reasonable size block isn't excessive.
 

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