Washing Machine & Bathrooms

[SamBee]

Our washing machine has broken down and been taken away, and a new one delivered, but installing has been confusing.

It was in our bathroom, which is obviously where we wanted to install the new one.

It was attached by a permanent connection in a direct socket which was wired to a fused switch set outside the bathroom. It had last been checked and approved by an electrician 2 years ago.

However, the new washing machine has a molded 13amp plug, and we're unsure about the best method of connecting to the mains supply.

Should I:

a) cut off the plug and create a permanent connection (as it was before)

b) Or should we buy an outdoor 13amp double socket (as intending to add a dryer at a later stage.)

Various searches have left me to investigate 'zones' as it appears the washing machine would be in Zone 2, but the electrical socket would be in Zone 3. But the 17th Edition of the IEE Wiring Regulations seems to have eradicated Zone 3, which confuses the matter further.

We have annual electrical safety checks from the landlord (a housing association) which have never been concerned with the connection previously, and indeed installed the water supply connection.

I know that in most circumstances a socket should never be introduced into a bathroom, which is why I was investigating outdoor sockets as an option.

I'm wary of cutting off the plug for a permanent connection in case that invalidates the makers guarantee (which I will investigate).

Help!

 

[Spark123]

Check the instruction book - does this say you can remove the plug to fit an alternative?
Is the new washing machine suitable for installation in a bathroom?
Technically under the 17th ed a socket may be installed if it is 3m from the edge of zone 1, I'd advise against trying to run a washing machine and a drier from one socket anyway. Personal preference will be to replace like for like.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I had heard that some manufaturers will invalidate the warranty if you cut off the plug

However, you're a bit stuck, best to install the new one like the old one was......
Socket in the bathroom is a no-no unless you've got a very big one
(ooh Matron!)

 

[Spark123]

I can't see how it will invalidate the warranty if it tells you to do it in the manual.

 

[SamBee]

Check the instruction book - does this say you can remove the plug to fit an alternative?
Is the new washing machine suitable for installation in a bathroom?

Doesn't say a thing re: bathrooms.

But it does have a small section on Permanent Connection:

"In the case of Permanent Connection you must install a double pole switch between the appliance and the mains" (i'm presuming the fused socket we have is this??)

 

[Spark123]

Sometimes but not always, you'll need to check what is written on the back of the fused switch outside the bathroom.
Re the suitability thing: you need to ensure that the new washing machine is suitable for installation in zone 2 of a bathroom, preferably from its manufacturer.

 

[breezer]

hotpoint will not allow you to remove the plug. invalidates waranty and how do you unplug it to:

know its isolated

carry out insulation resistance test

as an ex HP engineer, i would suggest plugiing it in elsw where ,dont cut the plug off

 

[BS3036]

On the other hand, see page 3 of this Hotpoint manual which explains how to remove the plug...
http://www.hotpoint.co.uk/hotpoint/_pdf/manuals/19506316701_UK.pdf

 

[Taylortwocities]

Looks like Hotpoint dont mind you chopping the plug off so long as the appliance can be isolated. How enlightened are they then??

 

[SamBee]

Thanks for all your feedback so far. Speaking to John Lewis (whose brand it is) said that any tampering will lead to the guarantee being invalidated (i.e. removing the molded plug).

And yet the instructions have information about how to make a permanent connection:

http://www.serviceforce.co.uk/pdfs/U26234.pdf

nb. on Page 27 - it's not the same model, but the same information re permanent connections.

So, that's left us confused (and in danger of starting to smell) as the warranty is one of the main reasons for buying a John Lewis product.

Best foot forward seems to be to test it with an extension to ensure it works from the delivery, and then connect it on a permanent basis, and cross your fingers.

Unless anyone has any ideas how to maintain the plug and keep the washing maching in the bathroom (will not fit anywhere else but the roof in our flat!).

 

[Spark123]

What did they say re installing it in zone 2 of a bathroom?

If you are given the go ahead, I'd lob the plug off and connect it in properly as it says you can in the manufacturers instructions. As you are following instructions provided by the manufacturer I cannot see how it can effect your guarentee, but I am not a lawyer.

 

[pbar]

I would cut the plug off and connect it like before.
Nothing wrong with doing that, plenty of people do it for various reasons, threading the cable behind a countertop, etc.
Should the machine go wrong in the future, you could always wire a normal plug back on, the people at John Lewis and/or the service engineer will not be bothered about a plug or moan that it isn't a moulded one. That's if they care how it's wired in at all, which is unlikely.

 

[SamBee]

You both are saying what we're thinking, and do it anyway.

I guess the customer service people always fall back on being overly cautious if they do not understand your question 100%

Sparky123 re: Zone 2 - didn't ask, as they definitely wouldn't understand. If the appliance is Zone 2, but the electrical connection is Zone 3, would we take it that we are using Zone 2 in this example?

 

[Spark123]

If an appliance is installed in zone 2 then it must be suitable for being installed there, minimum protection of IPX4 //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:ip, or if jets are used for cleaning IPX5.
Leaves you a few of options, confirm it is suitable for use there, move it so it isn't in the zone 2 or do something that the location isn't part of zone 2, (i.e. install a partition?)