Water Tank Lids ?

[hefs]

Hi,
I have 2 cold water tanks in my loft which are partly covered by blocks of wood. It has been recommended to me to buy lids for both of these to help with cutting down condensation, but I am having trouble locating one. Can you buy these seperately from somewhere like B&Q or Wickes ?

Also in the smaller tank (which I am told feeds the radiators) the water is fairly orange. Is this normal or a problem ? If a problem what can be done to clear it ?

Thanks

 

[masona]

Also in the smaller tank (which I am told feeds the radiators) the water is fairly orange. Is this normal or a problem ? If a problem what can be done to clear it ?

It maybe rust, sounds like there's no chemical in the central heating system, ask on the plumbing forum for further advice.

 

[JohnD]

Can you buy these seperately from somewhere like B&Q or Wickes?

Yes, but the lids will be for the brand of tanks that they sell, may not always be a perfect fit for your old ones. Measure your tanks carefully before buying lids. You can trim the lids with a sharp knife or hacksaw. If the lid is too tight to clip on at the rim you can sometimes ease it by notching the rim of the lid to make it more flexible.

Buy and fit insulating jackets while you are at it.

Also in the smaller tank (which I am told feeds the radiators) the water is fairly orange. Is this normal or a problem ? If a problem what can be done to clear it ?

1) Tie up the ball-cock and bale out the tank, then sponge away all the sediment into a bucket (this is to prevent it being washed into the system and causing a blockage). You will be surprised what a lot there is, and how very fine. The corrosion will eat through radiators. When re-filling, adjust the float so that the water level is only a couple of inches above the exit pipe (the cistern should not be "full" to allow for expansion).

2) Buy a bottle of Chemical Cleaner, and a bottle of Corrosion inhibitor. As you have a Feed & Expansion tank you do not need to try to squirt the chemical in through the top of a radiator Sentinel and Fernox are good brands. Follow the instructions. When you first drain the system, you can expect to get black sludge out. This is the stuff you are trying to remove, since it will cause blockages, and damage the pump as well as making the boiler noisy.

 

[hefs]

Thanks for the advice John. I shall attempt at the weekend

 

[JohnD]

If you do not have plenty of drain-offs then after your first ever drain, fit one or more Lockshield Valves with Drain-Off. They are very handy and only cost a few pounds. I have them on all my downstairs rads.

 

[hefs]

Sorry to be a complete plumbing novice but I know nothing. When you say drain the system does this mean draining off the water from the radiators ? I have looked at the corrosion inhibiter and that's all it says on there and I really don't know where to start.

 

[JohnD]

Have a browse through the information on the first few posts in http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=7

Yes, that is what draining means. There should be at least one drain-off, somewhere at a low point in your system. If not, it is possible to drain by undoing a radiator valve, but this is likely to cause spillages. Some installers are too mean to provide drain-offs, which is why I recommended that special rad valve, which you can push a hosepipe onto.

You must turn off the boiler so that it does not heat up, and the pump does not run, before you start draining, and leave them off until it is full of water again.

Unless your system is very clean, you need to use a system cleaner before flushing, rinsing and adding inhibitor.