Water through hot taps not getting hot.

Hi Youth!

Funnily enough, I did those very same checks last night! The diverter is definitely working ok. I ran the tap and the 15mm pipe on the flow to the taps barely got lukewarm, but none of the CH pipes got warm. When switching to CH the 22mm flow pipe got hot and when I opened a hot water tap, the water came out hot in hardly anytime at all. I assume from these tests that all is well with the diverter. I was able to observe the diverter operating the micro switch at all stages and it seemed to be doing what is should be when asked.

Now for what may be the good news! On page 34 of my boiler manual there are step by step checks I can make using my multimeter. I am pretty certain that the gas pressure is ok, so I will only have to do the continuity checks it tells you to do. If either one of the tests fail then I'm looking at £200 or so to either replace the PCB or the gas valve, both of which are cheaper than a new boiler! I'll let you know how I get on, but won't be doing it today, as we have friends round! Thanks for your input!
Les
 
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Hi to all who responded to my problem. I just turned a hot tap on and now have hot water in less than a minute. The only things I have done since replacing the diverter valve diaphragm, (which didn't result in getting hot water at the taps), is to check the circuit board at ST16, blue wires, for 60+ ohms and to replace the water to water heat exchanger '0' rings.

At first my tests confirmed a faulty gas valve, but when I tested the circuit board again my results went down to 57.8 ohms. As I wasn't getting 60+ohms, this conflicted with my diagnosis of the faulty gas valve, so I had a rest from checking as was described in the back of my boiler manual.

I'm just hoping all is well and that I must have disturbed something whilst doing the checks, as I'd mistakenly taken the whole control panel out to do the checks! I'll let you know how things progress, so thanks to all of you who tried to help me out. Great forum!
 

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