Hi, please help if you can, I had to take the tiles up on the kitchen floor as there was a problem with the sub floor, Carnt afford to re tile so planning to lay Vinyl, but the ply board must have been laid by monkeys as there are gaps about 2 1/2 inches between about the thickness in the ply board depth, need to fill these other wise will show through the vinyl , was planning to use reseal high performance filler is this ok or should I use some thing different any help much appreciated thanks bob.
WHAT CAN YOU USE TO FILL GAPS IN PLY BOARD FLOORS?
- Thread starter Bob Sow
- Start date
unfortunately it is not possible to fill the gaps with more ply as all the gaps are not straight angles every where , carnt lay on top would have to re ply board the whole room them the height to the next 2 rooms would be obvious. could I fill with cement?
How thick is the plywood, i.e. how deep are the gaps?
I've used Sika floor leveller (in a bag) for similar situations, but never encountered gaps as wide as 2½". You could also use something like the product in the link below, although I can't say how good it as because I've never used it.
Take a trip to a DIY shed or builder's merchants and they will have various floor levelling compounds, some of which are flexible and therefore more suitable for wooden floors.
http://www.diy.com/departments/tarmac-floor-leveller-10-kg/228570_BQ.prd?icamp=recs&rrec=true
Take a trip to a DIY shed or builder's merchants and they will have various floor levelling compounds, some of which are flexible and therefore more suitable for wooden floors.
http://www.diy.com/departments/tarmac-floor-leveller-10-kg/228570_BQ.prd?icamp=recs&rrec=true
I don't understand that. Can you post some photos? Put your hand or a 50p coin in the pic to show scale
so this is a thin ply, nailed onto an existing floor to conceal defects of some kind.
In that case, I would say, pull up the thin stuff and staple down some new. It is not expensive. The way to get perfect joints is to do all your cuts and trimming round the edges of your room, so that all the other joints will be the uncut factory edges, which will be straight with square corners.
examples
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non-Structural-Hardwood-Plywood-5-5-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/110117
but if it is just to block draughts between level floorboards, a thin one will do.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non-Structural-Hardwood-Plywood-3-6-x-606-x-1220mm/p/110514
big sheets are cheaper, but harder to carry
Any chance of those photos?
In that case, I would say, pull up the thin stuff and staple down some new. It is not expensive. The way to get perfect joints is to do all your cuts and trimming round the edges of your room, so that all the other joints will be the uncut factory edges, which will be straight with square corners.
examples
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non-Structural-Hardwood-Plywood-5-5-x-1220-x-2440mm/p/110117
but if it is just to block draughts between level floorboards, a thin one will do.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Non-Structural-Hardwood-Plywood-3-6-x-606-x-1220mm/p/110514
big sheets are cheaper, but harder to carry
Any chance of those photos?
To be honest, I was expecting a load of uneven tapering joints.
I don't see a big problem with cutting a few strips of the same thickness plywood to stick in place with some Gripfill. If that narrowest piece of ply was pulled up it could be moved closer to the piece above it, making less awkward filler pieces necessary at the edges.
Obviously, we can't see the whole floor, so there might be more to do, but if the gaps are all like those in the picture, you can definitely cut some ply to fill them.
I don't see a big problem with cutting a few strips of the same thickness plywood to stick in place with some Gripfill. If that narrowest piece of ply was pulled up it could be moved closer to the piece above it, making less awkward filler pieces necessary at the edges.
Obviously, we can't see the whole floor, so there might be more to do, but if the gaps are all like those in the picture, you can definitely cut some ply to fill them.
I'm surprised the surface looks so fresh after removing tiles!
If that's all it is I would unscrew that small bit of ply and replace it with a new bit that fits. Although I suppose if you've already got some cementor filler lying around then that would be the cheapest (i.e. free) option, even if it disintegrates over time.
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