What Coving type, advice for new user

[bigbird76]

Hi all

I just need some advice about ceiling coving as i have never installed any before.

Before we start i have completed 2 bathrooms and fitted a kitchen in my home so im pretty handy with DIY.

Also I have a hand compound mitre sliding saw for cutting the coving.

Ok here is where i am a little lost.

I plan to run some surround sound speaker wires behind the ceiling coving so i need to run them 1st. will this be ok as i think it is the best way to hide the wiring, Also when it is not used anymore i can just leave the wires inside.

What is the best type of coving to buy to cover a room approx 12m Square.

Someone in work says you can get lotts of types i just want something i can stick up with gripfill or something, Also something that looks ok i just want a basic patten not egg dart stuff or anything. My friend years ago put plaster coving up and i helped him i remember it was a knightmare of a job No plaster please.

Also where would be a good place to look for this stuff i think B&** will probably charge the earth for this stuff.

Cheers

Leigh

 

[mattylad]

The wiring will be fine.

B&Q don't actually charge the earth for it, they were about the same as other sheds.

There is a polystyrene filled or plaster filled paper coated type available for about £16 for 6x2m lengths. I think thats 90cm wide.

It does the job, goes up easily, cuts fine & overpaints just as well.

 

[bigbird76]

I think this stuff looks ok what you guys recon??

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Plaster-Coving/Lightweight-Polystyrene-Coving/invt/163561


Looks ok and paper faced to give a plaster effect

Also is it ok to gripfill/Sticks like S**T this stuff up ?

Cheers

Leigh

 

[mattylad]

That looks OK.
I have used both the plaster filled one & the polystyrene filled one.
And although I have a personal preference for the plaster filled one, it's only because I feel that poly filled stuff is cheap & naff, but the finished effect is exactly the same.
Poly filled stuff is a lot easier to put up, you can manage a single strip on your own with no problems & it does not need much to hold it up, so a gunge gun applied adhesive should be fine as long as it sticks to both.

Something to bear in mind is movement from above, if above the ceiling is walked on a lot etc the ceiling may be flexing & cause cracks in whatever you use to fill gaps, so it may be best to use something like a decorator caulk (not the silicone stuff) that you can smooth with your finger & paint.

My mind always boggles when I start cutting the corners, my mitre block's instructions are to put it in upside down etc & if I ever lose them I'm going to be well stuffed however by buying the correct mitre block for the job it has over time saved me money in not needing the expensive corner bits.

Don't worry if the gaps don't meet 100% as you can fill them & sand them down, once painted you'll never notice.

If you have a length of coving left over, European directive COV.001.652 section 3 states that it must be stored for at least 3 years just in case it comes in handy (or stick it on your local Freecycle group).

 

[mattylad]

Hmm,. now I have said that, I'm wondering if the stick's like poo type adhesives dry too hard?

I recall my last house had everything applied to the walls with the above adhesive and pulling the bits off the adhesive was extremely hardened.
So as not to give any flexibility in situ.

But then does the coving adhesive give any?

Perhaps one of the tradesmen could comment on that?

Cheers,
Matty