What do I need to get to have GU10 LEDs on this dimmer?

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I have this light switch:

271switch.jpg


Inside that, the two switches to the right, are these Schneider modules:

http://www.rselectricalsupplies.co....rid-gugemdimwms16-300w-electronic-dimmer_2962

I don't believe these can be used with GU10 LED bulbs... is there an alternative that can?

I'm happy taking the thing off the wall and replacing the GUGEMDIM thing, as I've had to do that twice now (they seem quite brittle in nature to me)... so wondered if, next time, I might be able to put in something that will work with GU10 dimmable LED bulbs so I can move away from the halogens that run very hot.

I've put GU10 LEDs in all other fittings that aren't on these dimmers. I guess I could replace the dimmers with a simple on/off grid switch as a last resort if LEDs were so important to me, but I'd like to know if I can get the best of both worlds?

Any insight appreciated.
 
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The spec on the SChnieder dimmer says it needs a load of at least 60watts. You could ask Schneider if they make a low watts version.
Alternatively, Danlers and Aurora (maybe others) make a dummy load to sort out exactly this problem.

Here's a link to the Aurora one https://www.downlights.co.uk/aurora-resistive-load.html


You'll need dimmer-able LED lamps too, of course..
 
Very interesting... does a dummy load imply that some of the efficiency of using LEDs is therefore lost?

Actually, as typing the above line, is seems it 'adds' 10 watts... so it'd be like having 2 more 5 watt GU10 LED bulbs.

The only thing is... completely unsure about where this goes and if there's room for another physical object in there... and it's huge, 13cm long!

Maybe I should have a fitting with 3 x on / off switches, like the first one is (that's got LED GU10s on it, only 2 x 5 watt).
 
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As already stated the dimmer has a minimum rating of 60W, so you require either a higher load or a low load dimmer for you lamps to function.

The issue is not efficiency with respect to above post, it is marrying up the correct components required to make things work, before you plug-in and play!
 
The only thing is... completely unsure about where this goes and if there's room for another physical object in there... and it's huge, 13cm long!

.

You can put it anywhere in the circuit, so across (in parallel) with one of the LED lights - I assume they are downlights - up in the ceiling.
 
Absolute madness to go to energy efficient LEDs than add dummy loads to take away the efficiency.

And how does it only consume 10w but appear as a 50w load?
 
Philips made a LED bulb which it also claimed foxed the dimmer into thinking it was putting a higher load than it really was on the power supply. I think the problem is when one changes a bulb they have many ways of turning a AC 50 Hz 230 volt supply to the DC 380 mA at approx 3 volt needed for the LED chip. Some are far more efficient than others with a lumen per watt varying from 40 to 100 and in some cases a PF of 0.5. One does not need to understand what I have said, all it means is there are many ways, all which will work without an electronic switch, but some may work with very different results when using an electronic switch be it a dimmer, of light sensitive or a touch control.

Even using a switch designed for LED they state things like "Made specifically for use with LEDlite Dimmable GU10 LED's" so using them with any other make is hit and miss. It also has a minimum of 11W. I looked at spec for 5W LEDlite and it is very good, 96 lumen per watt voltage 100 ~ 240 clearly it uses a very good system. But costs around £9 nearly double the price of the cheap high street lamps and since they last so long you tend not to keep a stock so when it does fail it's out to local shop not wait for replacements in the post.

I have removed all of my dimmer switches.
 

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