What fixings would you recommend for...

[Bob Harris]

my house room has been insulated with Celotex PL4000 insulation board. These boards comprise a 12mm plasterboard finish backed with 60mm of sprayed on foam.
I want to fix a storage heater to the wall and hang a roller blind in the window bay but I'm unsure about what fitxings to use.
I would imagine normal plasterboard fixings like the butterfly screws wouldn't work because there is no room to expand bechand the plasterboard. How can a get a solid anchor into foam?

 

[jeds]

Self drill plugs would certainly do the roller blind. The storage heater depends on the weight but they do take quite a load, especially if you can put plenty in.

Like these: www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-100-pack/47347#_=p

 

[charliegolf]

I have used loads of these very effectively on hollow walls. They are great load holders. I would expect them to easily crimp up against the insulation using the proper tool.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-hollow-wall-anchors-6-13mm-m5-x-43mm-10-pack/18266

CG

 

[Bob Harris]

I wish i'd had the foresight to keep a piece of the wall insulation now to use as a test piece... Duh!

 

[John D v2.0]

Just look in any skip when there's a loft conversion being finished off, alternatively go and order some free samples from the celotex web site

 

[noseall]

We mark out where the brackets go then carefully cut out the plasterboard material and insulation back to masonry. We fix timber blocks that sit flush with the finished wall. We then fix into the blocks.

Or.....

Just use long fixings and drill into the masonry. Supplement the bracket fixing with some strong adhesive.

 

[Bob Harris]

Just look in any skip when there's a loft conversion being finished off, alternatively go and order some free samples from the celotex web site

Free samples, of course! Thanks!!!

 

[Tigercubrider]

or drill through to masonry and use suitable fixings (rawlbolts?) but use a bit of steel conduit the depth of the insulation and PB as a spacer.
You need long bolts obviously

 

[John D v2.0]

One thing you should think about is strength of fixing vs how much you want to avoid a thermal bridge.
No more nails would be best for avoiding that(!) And metal would be strongest for very heavy loads.

 

[Bob Harris]

Self drill plugs would certainly do the roller blind. The storage heater depends on the weight but they do take quite a load, especially if you can put plenty in.

Like these: www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-100-pack/47347#_=p

I only have two holes available for the storage heater. The feet take the weight. I tried these but they just pulled out. They just can't get a firm fix in the foam.

 

[Bob Harris]

or drill through to masonry and use suitable fixings (rawlbolts?) but use a bit of steel conduit the depth of the insulation and PB as a spacer.
You need long bolts obviously

It's an internal stud wall. So nothing behind the foam but air then plasterboard on the other side. About a foot deep total.

 

[motorbiking]

I'd go with a frame fixing No8 should be fine in a 120mm or 140mm fixing e.g.
http://www.toolstation.com/search?searchstr=25635 39846 22691 11533 19114 88470

depending on the block/brick behind.

Under £2 for a pack of 10. I'd avoid cutting the insulation out and fixing a batten as technically if you cut more than 150mm2 out of the insulation - its no longer compliant with building control.

I've mounted heavy tower radiators this way and they grip well. for belt n braces stick a washer between the plastic fixing and the screw which will increase the surface area for compression.

 

[Chud]

It's an internal stud wall. So nothing behind the foam but air then plasterboard on the other side. About a foot deep total.

Is the insulation there just for sound reduction purposes then?

 

[motorbiking]

Ahh - I didn't read the last bit:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+&+Fixings/d90/Cavity+Fixings/sd1930/Spring+Toggle/p53684

 

[Bob Harris]

Is the insulation there just for sound reduction purposes then?

Pretty much. I had a few boards left over so i did the extra wall.