Whats the best varnish for an oak floor

[andymx3]

I've just put down an engineerd oak tongue and groove floor. It is treated with a satin finish already but it seems real soft and is marking quite easy. What's the best clear/satin varnish to toughen it up and make it more resilient? I have heard of Dulux Diamandglaze and Ronseal D-H Floor. Are there any others, what would you recommend?
Thanks.

 

[WoodYouLike]

The only way you can varnish a varnished floor is to sand the old layer off first!
If your new product marks very easily: back to the shop

 

[Scrit]

Dulux Diamondglaze is really good stuff, but as WYL says it needs to go onto sanded timber. Streets ahead of Ronseal or Rustins IMHO.

Scrit

 

[olly_baker]

What's the difference mate? I'm looking at doing my floors this weekend, and unsure as to what to coat them with.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Are you sure it has been treated with varnish and not with oil? Oil feels 'softer' than varnish, but is gives a good protection. Have you checked the description of the product you bought?

 

[Gary59]

I agree with WoodYouLike, send it back.

Having said that I stained and varnished 60m2 oak recently and used Sadolin PV67 Heavy Duty Varnish, its a beautiful finish.

 

[andymx3]

Forgive my inexperience. But why would I need to sand the existing varnish off. Its brand new and has a satin coat on it. Surely when you put varnish on you put two or three coats on i.e. one coat on top of another. I've already done a small downstairs toilet with some ronseal, and it went on fine and looks fine. so I thought I'd ask what the best stuff is before I did the rest of it. Cheers.
Andy

 

[WoodYouLike]

On unfinished flooring indeed you apply two - three layers straight after each other. with a pre-finished floor A) you don't know the products the manufacturer used; B) nowadays most are UV dried, something you can't establish yourself (or you have to hire a very expensive UV light) C) the new varnish coat on top of the already existing (and who knows how old) coat could look right in first instance, but always has the risk of peeling of because it didn't 'catch'.
But go ahead, you're the 'customer'. IMHO you should go back to the shop if you don't trust the manufacturers finish layer.
But warning: if you do go ahead and things go pear-shaped you have lost the guarantee.

 

[andymx3]

This doesn't take and peeling you speak of. How long does this normally take? I have plenty of extra wood left which I can test vernishes on. Cheers.

 

[pantsmachine]

Nobody can answer that one. Firstly you have the layer on layer effect with no 'key'. I.E smooth finished surface to smooth new applied finish with no penetration of the new product into the timber and secondly it would be hard to simulate the flex(minimal though it may be) in your laid floor on a piece in the garage or similar. Could be ok or could be peeling in 3 months. P.S i like 2 pack lacquers myself for finishing.