Whats the Bora 1.9 TDI cam belt change intervals?

[DIYspanner]

I've noticed that some of the timing belt kit manufacturers supply the spindle bolts for the guide pulley and tensioner and some don't.

Gates don't so presumably they deem it unnecessary for the VW TDI PD engines.

Hopefully another 60k miles til another change.

 

[DIYspanner]

Changed the oil/filter and fuel filter today.

I've put (5w30) 507.00 long life in but will still change it at 6k miles. Regardless of long life, deposits still accumulate in the oil. The 5w30 offers better wear protection than the 5w40 apparently.

Checked the brake linings also.

All done.

 

[Burnerman]

Cheers for the update! Sounds like you know the car inside out now.
Just a bit of natter.....I have a suction device that removes the last dregs of oil from the chamber below the oil filter, which is actually the oil cooler. On the common rail engine, the filter is on the other end of this chamber so you can guarantee to get an arm full of oil when you remove the filter however, the large plastic hexagon nut has a smaller nut inside that you remove first....just avoids a full oil deluge.
I don't renew the oil drain plug and washer though - never found that necessary but I do give it a smear of blue Hylomar before bunging it back in.
John

 

[DIYspanner]

Most obliged John.

My concoction for sucking the oil dregs out is a liquid soap dispenser pump handle with a plastic pipe push on to the suction tube. Works a treat!

I don't renew the sump plug either. In the 7 years I oil changed my sister's old TDI Bora, there was never any oil drips on the drive. Since I invested in a Sealy 3/8" torque wrench to do the timing belt, when I was on the job today, I tightened the sump plug to 30Nm, just like a professional does!

 

[DaveHerns]

I always like to use a new washer, I'd get the right hump if the old one leaked.

 

[Burnerman]

Fair comment Dave - the plug and washer are integral on these so its a new plug. Both are steel so crushing is minimal.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

That's a good bit of design!

 

[Burnerman]

Just some more totally useless information....
The thread is rolled onto the bolt, rather than the more typical thread cut with a die - this means that a washer can be placed onto the metal blank first, prior to rolling. The Japs have done this since time immemorial and the thread is claimed to be stronger. The guys at VW say that the plug must be replaced once it becomes tight to undo - other than the first release. As the bolt is steel and the sump is aluminium I'd say the sump threads would give up first!
John

 

[DaveHerns]

With my compulsion to tighten things as much as I can , that wouldn't last 5 mins with me! I remember the old Ford Kent engines with the sump plug thread cut into a pressed steel sump with a reinforce. They were easy to strip.

 

[DIYspanner]

I'm curious why VW use a steel washer.

I would have thought a good thick brass or fibre washer would provide a better seal. Both are more pliable!

 

[Burnerman]

For sure, I've never checked to see what metal is actually used, but I've never had one split, spread or crush so they've got something right! Its definitely tougher than aluminium, certainly.
They don't suffer from leakage either particularly, unlike the steel type with the rubber insert which is popular now.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

The rubber insert ones are use once only ! I prefer the copper ones like the spark plug washers as you can tighten them and feel them compress instead of the threads stripping.

 

[Diver Fred]

I have a Golf TDI1.6 (of 2010 vintage). No info in handbook or servicing regarding cam belt change intervals so I finaly asked at the local dealers. I'll share that information below.

It's 140000 miles or 5 years which ever comes first.

Why can't VW put that in the documents supplied with the car?

The dealership quoted £449 including belt, waterpump and labour.

 

[DaveHerns]

It would be a brave owner to run a cambelt to 140k miles. If one broke at 4 years and 135k miles can you see VW paying for repairs?

 

[DIYspanner]

£449 if the engine mount threads aren't stripped.

£449 + (£90 + vat) if they are.