Whats the Bora 1.9 TDI cam belt change intervals?

[DIYspanner]

Looking to buy a 2003 reg in very good nick.

102k on the clock with belt done at 60k.

Alright til 120k miles ?

 

[Burnerman]

VW used to insist on very early timing belt change intervals.....around 45k or every four years, I think it was. Personally I'd say 60k was more than adequate so long as it had a tensioner, guide and water pump at the same time.
It was also a requirement to measure the belt width at every service but I've never understood what that was meant to prove!
You could easily take the top belt cover off, start up and see the tensioner operating.....it should have minimal movement if the belt is sound.
John

 

[Tigercubrider]

Belts age apart from mileage issues

My Volvo has had two changes since new in 2001 despite the mileage being low

 

[Burnerman]

Only my opinion ....
Some manufacturers are ultra cautious (VAG) 4 years some with 120000 miles
Some manufacturers are ultra cavalier (PSA) 10 years some with 110000 miles
I've changed belts at 4 years and 40k and they were as new - unnecessary expense
So, I make my own decisions and change belts around the 70k mark - assuming that there is no oil contamination - and I never reuse a belt. I always change the aux belt too.
It's a long time since I've come across a belt with serious deterioration but I appreciate I don't have X-ray eyes either!
John

 

[DaveHerns]

Didn't some engines have problems with the belt rubbing on something and wearing down on one edge ? Therefore by measuring the width you'd know if it was wearing away

 

[Burnerman]

Sure, every belt will have a guide to stop it flying off the pulleys, but as far as I know it's only VAG that specify the width particularly.
I've never had a timing belt out of alignment that I can recall.
In the bad old days of the 1980s the belts were of a much inferior material than they are today......the Ford CVH for example used to snap them at any time after 12k, but the belt route was tortuous and actually had to bend back on itself 90 deg.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

I'm fairly certain some engines had tensioners which were not in line or angled causing the belt to run against the guide plate and wear away. Fairly sure it was a VW engine. If only I hadn't thrown out 20 odd years of Car Mechanics magazines !

 

[DIYspanner]

I've got the Bora so when the weather is decent, I take the cover off and see what the belt is like.

If all is well, now at 102k, I'll change it 110k along with the pump and tensioner since that seems to be a must.

 

[Burnerman]

A good move matey.....can I give you a tip?
Look at or even photo the tensioner before you start. You'll see an arrow that has to locate between two notches on the tensioner and thats where it needs to be when the job is done. It seems to be over tensioning the belt at the time of installation but that's where it needs to be.
John

 

[Tigercubrider]

Bloke on the telly does it by slitting the belt in half lengthways while still on the engine and removing the one half. Then slip on the new one, once it's on, retaining the position of the wheels, cut the remaining half and slide the new belt further on

 

[Burnerman]

I think that's one of those 'theoretically possible' scenarios....I've never tried it though and reckon you would need the tensioner to be well slack anyway - a new belt is very hard to stretch!
Not possible if you need a new pump or tensioner of course.
I use a couple of those sprung timber clothes pegs to keep the belt in place when I'm faffing on.
John

 

[DaveHerns]

Which TV fake mechanic is this? Imagine doing it on a 4 cam V8 .....

 

[DIYspanner]

Had a look at ebay listings for kits

Gates are a good make I seem to recall -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gates-Tim...l:Bora&hash=item3ac15ea0d5:g:o5oAAOSwAvJXA8CW

If anyone can recommend better, I'll heed your advice.

I presume I'd have to invest in a cam sprocket locking set as well?

 

[Burnerman]

That's the kit you need, plus an auxiliary belt and coolant of course.
I don't use a locking kit on these, just a few dabs of paint to show where things are in line. If I remember correctly - and depending on the engine designation number - the cam and injection pump are marked well enough but the crank pulley isn't......of course I may be wrong.
I don't slacken off the camshaft pulley at all.
The crankshaft belt pulley has 4 bolts, Ribe heads I think and they are made of cheese....c;lean the heads first and tap the socket bit right in before trying to undo.
The water pump has 3 bolts and a metallic gasket usually.
John

 

[Tigercubrider]

Ed China on wheeler dealers