Whats the Bora 1.9 TDI cam belt change intervals?

Its the bit about loosening the camshaft sprocket that's got me confused.

If the sprocket is loosened to rotate on the end of the camshaft, presumably it has to be rotated back and tightened prior to the new belt being fitted. The sprocket must be in exactly the right position on the camshaft.

The slots that the bolts fit in allow a few degrees of movement.


If its of any interest -
 
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That's why I leave them well alone!
The belt goes on easily enough, pressed onto the pulleys a bit of a time with no levering other than by thumb. Manufacturers are able to set up the injection sequence using verniers and micrometers - out of my league and I don't have the data anyway.
One final point - the tensioner instructions that come with the device are generic and don't apply to every engine. picture wise.
John :)
 
Its the bit about loosening the camshaft sprocket that's got me confused.

If the sprocket is loosened to rotate on the end of the camshaft, presumably it has to be rotate back and tightened prior to the new belt being fitted. The sprocket mus be in exactly the right position on the camshaft.

The slots that the bolts fit in allow a few degrees of movement.


If its of any interest -

The timing itself does not change as the camshaft is locked in position, the sprocket does not have to be in the exact same position.
 
The timing itself does not change as the camshaft is locked in position, the sprocket does not have to be in the exact same position.

The sprocket bolts to the camshaft but can be loosened and rotated. As its between the belt and the camshaft, I would have thought the sprocket's position on the camshaft was crucial.
 
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Here's one from SKF for fitting a Passat TDI belt.

When the tensioner is adjusted, the engineer merely tightens the camshaft sprocket. To me the sprocket is not in the original position because the sprocket was turned clockwise on the locked camshaft to remove the belt tension.

 
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All well and good if the belt fits but it may not pull enough to get it on the cam sprocket as the crank wont move.
 
Well, if I do loosen the cam sprocket to ease the belt tension, what do I do after the new belt is fitted ?

Do I just tighten the cam sprocket bolts back up after adjusting the belt tensioner?
 
Just seems weird that the cam sprocket can rotate on the end of the shaft when camshaft position is critical.

I'd expect something like a woodruff key between the shaft the sprocket keeping them locked together.
 
Either way, slackening the cam sprocket bolts doesn't help easing the belt into place so I'll continue to do it my way - but happy to get a slap!
That spring clip in the tensioner is a bit of a pain too.....I leave it out from the start.
I haven't had the pleasure of doing a CR engine yet, and the belt has a harder time than the TDi.....the service interval on some of them is 110k miles :eek:
John :)
I'll just edit this.....I noticed the SKF guy fitted the guide roller once the belt was on, which may give a bit more slack. I fit the thing first but I'll bear that in mind!
J.
 
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Your way certainly seems less complex John.

Do you bother with any of the lock down tools?
 
Your way certainly seems less complex John.

Do you bother with any of the lock down tools?
I don't, as a matter of fact....I apply a few blobs of paint on each timed sprocket before removing the old belt and so long as the marks realign when the new belt is on, I'm happy - and I've never known them to be even a degree off.
Times change though, as some new vehicles have sprockets that aren't keyed onto their shafts :eek: ( bloody nightmare) and locking tools are essential. You'll be ok with yours!
John :)
 
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