Whats the Bora 1.9 TDI cam belt change intervals?
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I quite enjoy the programme but when one squirt of WD40 causes a 10 year old bolt to fall out I wonder what I've been doing wrong 
John
John
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Dayco, Gates or SKF brand belt/tensioner/water pump kit?
Or is there a better brand ?
Or is there a better brand ?
Those are the three best brands.....Gates for me as they can come with a quality water pump in the kit.
John
John
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Thanks John!
Gates for me too, the one i used yesterday came with a comprehensive removal/install guide too with pictures which was great.
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Gates brand it is then!
The injector pump sprocket can be locked with a 15/64" drill bit I understand from a youtube video, just need to get the size of peg I need to lock the camshaft.
I presume the crankshaft will stay put when rotated to the right position?
Is there any problem putting the OAT orange type anti-freeze in a Bora TDI?
The injector pump sprocket can be locked with a 15/64" drill bit I understand from a youtube video, just need to get the size of peg I need to lock the camshaft.
I presume the crankshaft will stay put when rotated to the right position?
Is there any problem putting the OAT orange type anti-freeze in a Bora TDI?
You can buy the correct tools but it just adds to the expense of the job, not too bad if your doing more in the future.
I seem to remember the pegs being just over 6mm.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-D...846545?hash=item339f97a0d1:g:GOMAAOSwEeFVDHs9
Tippex is ok to mark the crank sprocket, it may move half a tooth or so when your putting the belt on but can easily just be moved back. The timing tool above locks the crank sprocket in position so it cant move.
I would have thought this car originally came with the red coolant, but if not no problem in using it as long as the old stuff is flushed out as its not a good idea to mix different types.
I seem to remember the pegs being just over 6mm.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-D...846545?hash=item339f97a0d1:g:GOMAAOSwEeFVDHs9
Tippex is ok to mark the crank sprocket, it may move half a tooth or so when your putting the belt on but can easily just be moved back. The timing tool above locks the crank sprocket in position so it cant move.
I would have thought this car originally came with the red coolant, but if not no problem in using it as long as the old stuff is flushed out as its not a good idea to mix different types.
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I have x2 Bora TDI to look after so the kit is worth investing in since we tend to keep cars til they drop - a few belt changes to do.
many thanks for the link
Its the red coolant (Auotchem by Tetrosyl) I was thinking off, it seems to have an orange tint when at 33% mix.
many thanks for the link
Its the red coolant (Auotchem by Tetrosyl) I was thinking off, it seems to have an orange tint when at 33% mix.
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The engine is a PD (ATD) engine.
I was watching youtube videos for VW PD engine timing belts. The cam sprocket loosened after the camshaft is locked to slacken the belt but it doesn't explain the procedure to position the sprocket and tighten it after the belt is fitted.
If the sprocket is loosened and turned clockwise, its out of alignment. If its held in position by three bolts and they come loose, the timing is lost.
Apparently you have to replace the engine mount/consul bolts as well!
I was watching youtube videos for VW PD engine timing belts. The cam sprocket loosened after the camshaft is locked to slacken the belt but it doesn't explain the procedure to position the sprocket and tighten it after the belt is fitted.
If the sprocket is loosened and turned clockwise, its out of alignment. If its held in position by three bolts and they come loose, the timing is lost.
Apparently you have to replace the engine mount/consul bolts as well!
I've never yet done the job that way, but I am aware of the recommendation......I just mark everything several times with a blob of white touch up paint and double check everything before starting up.
I've never had any problems, and have changed dozens of belts. Although the adjustable camshaft pulley may well allow vernier adjustments of the timing I just can't see the need - if the new belt is the same as OE. Engine performance has never been affected.
I'll confess to never changing the engine mounting bolts either as they aren't particularly tight, and would be interested to learn why. For sure, on tightening they are no where near any elastic limit.
John
I've never had any problems, and have changed dozens of belts. Although the adjustable camshaft pulley may well allow vernier adjustments of the timing I just can't see the need - if the new belt is the same as OE. Engine performance has never been affected.
I'll confess to never changing the engine mounting bolts either as they aren't particularly tight, and would be interested to learn why. For sure, on tightening they are no where near any elastic limit.
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Many thanks John
So if the crank shaft and camshaft are aligned, they'll stay put without any locking tools?
I presume with a bit of effort, the new belt can be fed on to the camshaft sprocket.
So if the crank shaft and camshaft are aligned, they'll stay put without any locking tools?
I presume with a bit of effort, the new belt can be fed on to the camshaft sprocket.
The timing isnt lost if those 3 bolts are loose, you have pinned the cam sprocket so it cannot move.
I think the idea is to aid belt alignment and help get the slack out using the tensioner. Some cars ask you to set the sprocket to the middle of the slots and others fully clockwise, i supose it depends where the tensioner is.
Sometimes when you rotate the engine twice after completion to check alignment then the cam timing may be slightly out, if so you can then pin the crank sprocket at tdc and slacken those 3 bolts to get the cam back in line and get the timing pin back in.
I think the idea is to aid belt alignment and help get the slack out using the tensioner. Some cars ask you to set the sprocket to the middle of the slots and others fully clockwise, i supose it depends where the tensioner is.
Sometimes when you rotate the engine twice after completion to check alignment then the cam timing may be slightly out, if so you can then pin the crank sprocket at tdc and slacken those 3 bolts to get the cam back in line and get the timing pin back in.
Yes, that's about it, but let me scratch the memory cell for a moment......
The belt is quite wide, and not the most flexible so make sure the tensioner is completely slackened off. Do photo the tensioner position before you start - there is an arrow between two forks, and that's how the new one needs to end up.
I don't recall any marks on the crankshaft pulley, so I marked that with one blob of paint on the top of the cog and another on the engine block.
Likewise the camshaft - I didn't slacken anything off but I think there was the possibility of locking it with a bolt or peg.
Even with the coolant drained at the radiator, there's still a lot left behind the water pump so prepare for a deluge!
The way I see it, a tiny amount of misalignment is probably due to a stretched belt, but one tooth out makes one hell of a difference to the timing marks!
John
The belt is quite wide, and not the most flexible so make sure the tensioner is completely slackened off. Do photo the tensioner position before you start - there is an arrow between two forks, and that's how the new one needs to end up.
I don't recall any marks on the crankshaft pulley, so I marked that with one blob of paint on the top of the cog and another on the engine block.
Likewise the camshaft - I didn't slacken anything off but I think there was the possibility of locking it with a bolt or peg.
Even with the coolant drained at the radiator, there's still a lot left behind the water pump so prepare for a deluge!
The way I see it, a tiny amount of misalignment is probably due to a stretched belt, but one tooth out makes one hell of a difference to the timing marks!
John
I think the official guides state that after a belt change and tension that these 3 bolts should be roughly back in the centre.
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