Where do I start?? CH system & DHW...

I still think the basic problem is, is that your 'plumber' hasn't a clue what a thermal store is or the principles of how it works.

I refer back to my earlier posts on my thoughts about the ACV ;)
 
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Correct, correct, correct... I go along with what you are saying but how do I get out of it now?

I "contracted" with him to supply a system that works, and he is still trying all sorts to get it to work.

Yes, I would have preferred to have someone who knows what they are doing to come in, sort it and leave us with a working system but that obviously isn't the case here unfortunately. :(
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Whats a saddle tank?
It's the one he carrries water in on his horse. :LOL: :LOL:

Seriously I don't know but I get the impression YOU will be the one saddelled with another lash up that under performs.
If it was mine I would insist on having the pipe work correctly connected and then see how the system operates.
 
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To me now, assuming that it was me you now called in to sort this mess out, I would want to rip most of the pipe work out, disconnect the ACV and start from scratch.

Who knows what he has done with the pipe work 'behind the scenes' :rolleyes: :eek:
 
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To me now, assuming that it was me you now called in to sort this mess out, I would want to rip most of the pipe work out, disconnect the ACV and start from scratch.

Who knows what he has done with the pipe work 'behind the scenes' :rolleyes: :eek:

.. pity you are down Norwich way 'cos I could have done with a project manager to keep the "plumber" in line.... :p
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Ok, it looks like the new DHW tank is coming out after the plumber sort of admits he has made a cock-up... He is now talking about a horizontal cylinder in the loft. At least we may get the kitchen space back but don't hold your breath, anything could happen!!

Right, this may be an opportunity for me to tie him down on specs.

Question... how do I size the DHW tank (heat bank?, thermal store? heat store?)

It obviously depends on DHW usage up to a point but also the heat sources and life syle and probably other factors.

The exisitng heat sources are a new 20kw multifuel stove and a new Worcester Greenstar Camray oil fired condensing boiler. The plan is to put solar on in the near furure.

If the water usage was low then the limiting factor would probably be the woodstove cos if it was too small a tank it would boil it's *******s off.

If the usage was high (there are 4/5 occupants, 2 sinks, 4 basins, washing machine, bath with shower and power shower) and we are all out all day then I would require a larger store of DHW.

My idea would be to light the woodstove when I get back in on an evening, run it at operating temp (most efficient?) and store as much heat as I can for showers/washes the next morning after the stove has gone out.

So... how big should I tell him the DHW tank needs to be then we can look at the space we have in the loft and look at tank "style". (vertical/horizontal, dual tanks etc depending on room)

The job only started 6 months ago, how much longer.... :(
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Rapidly coming to the conclusion that the gravity side of things needs to be pumped given we are in a bungalow....

Have been chatting on the Navitron forum http://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7514.0.html
and was given a link to a useful article

*****I am not sure that a hoizontal cylinder is the way forward
http://www.navitron.org.uk/forum/index.php/topic,7517.msg77780/topicseen.html#msg77780
there is a link to an article which you may find intresting****

Was thinking about a horizontal tank in the loft too but not after reading the article above I'm not so sure.
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Remember a while back in this post and I was complaining about the heat in the thermal store thermosyphoning into the loft and the heat leak rads. Someone suggested a N.O. valve the will fail safe and open if the is a power cut to allow the heat from the wood stove to thermosyphon in to the heat leak rads and dissipate.

I suggested this to the plumber.
My email to the plumber... The heat leak radiators in the loft have been turned off as they were sapping the heat from the tank when the immersion heater was on. (or any other heat source.) There needs to be a N.O. valve fitted into the system to prevent the waste of energy as climbing through the loft hatch to turn the heat leak radiators on and off is not a viable or safe option.

See the reply from the plumber... I agree heat leak rads shouldn't heat from any other source, yes this needs addressing though not sure what 'no valve' is.

I despair!! :eek:
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