Which one? - Sentinel Deposit Remover, Sentinel X400, Fernox F5, Everbuild P11

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mine is an obsolete model.

Also known as Spirovent, I think

they were on the industrial and commercial market long before the trend for domestic ones rocketed in popularity. Hence why mine is so solid and heavy.

http://www.spirotherm.com/products/dirt-separation
I'm sorry but that filter is shyte but if you don't believe me( as i suspect you don't :)) try looking on utube and see what one is like cut open and see what is catching all your shyte :cry::rolleyes: . so do yourself a favour and buy something decent ;) , remember have a good look :sneaky::ROFLMAO:
 
Pmsl that some thinks because a filter is on return that no muck particles will enter the boiler ,it takes thousands of passes of the contaminated water through a magnetic filter to collect everything. But hey ho .
If you are competent enough to take 1 rad off and flush it ,drain the system and do them all outside this is by far the best way of making sure system is clear .Then refill and add your cleaner it will work far more effectively in a less contaminated system
 
Out of interest why would all the black crud in my system be caught by a magnetic filter instead of the pump impellor where it currently settles?
 
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Pmsl that some thinks because a filter is on return that no muck particles will enter the boiler ,it takes thousands of passes of the contaminated water through a magnetic filter to collect everything. But hey ho .
If you are competent enough to take 1 rad off and flush it ,drain the system and do them all outside this is by far the best way of making sure system is clear .Then refill and add your cleaner it will work far more effectively in a less contaminated system

Are you saying a filter isn't worth it?

I agree about flushing outside. I've just flushed all the downstairs rads with enormous amounts of water and each one had enough sludge* to fill a couple of baked bean tins. (*Weird stuff when it dries). I've also flushed one upstairs rad - not so much in that one, so I can't decide whether to do the rest.
 
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Anyone know if a nut splitter will chop through a 15mm valve nut (the old ribbed variety**) without damaging the copper pipe?

(** like the one on the right here).
 
I've bought some X400.

The instructions say to run the central heating system for a minimum of 2 hours at 'normal operating temperature'. The problem is the weather is so warm that I think the house will get up to temperature long before 2 hours and the pump will then stop (therefore the X400 won't circulate).

So the question is, can I run the pump for (say) 24 hours continuously without heating the radiators - i.e. will the pump still run if I set the room stat to max and turn the boiler off?

The pump is a brand new Grundfos UP52 15-50/60 - I can't find any instructions for it.
 
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just stick the room stat upto 30 just now its not going to reach that temp in next 2 hours
 
just stick the room stat upto 30 just now its not going to reach that temp in next 2 hours

Ok, I'll do that for 2 hours (or however long it'll take to hit 30) - but Sentinel say 2 hours is the minimum and X400 can be left in for up to 3 weeks. I thought if I could run the pump for 24 hours non stop it would give X400 a better chance to work.

Can I run the pump continuously without the boiler running?
 

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