Which tool to chase walls for wiring (Ed.)

[opps]

I have used wall chasers in carpeted houses.

Mine is a cheapo Titan one from Screwfix. I connect it to one of my Festool dust extractors. Dust is pretty minimal provided that you go sufficiently deep the first time. It you make the mistake of not going deep the first time, if you do a second run, the dust will shoot out of the slots. You do get a bit of dust as you first plunge in but once the base of the tool is flat with the wall, there really is very little dust.

The Titan includes a tool (read:chisel) to snap out the brick and plaster.

A downside is that, because of the length of the tool, you will only be able to start the channel about 20cm up from the floor.

An advantage is that because it had two blades, the slots are guaranteed to be parallel.

 

[foxhole]

You already have ugly trunking on the wall just add some more .

 

[JohnW2]

You already have ugly trunking on the wall j...

Where?

 

[SUNRAY]

Wouldn't it be a better idea to lower the hole on the side so it's closer to the switch fuse box. So I can just spur of that and put socket where you have said at the front ?

Pulling teeth comes to mind. I'm trying to show an alternative option to getting your cable in, where you put the hole is entirely up to you.

 

[jcaan]

Pulling teeth comes to mind. I'm trying to show an alternative option to getting your cable in, where you put the hole is entirely up to you.

Cheers for that. I totally get you. I thought there might have been a reason why you had it higher. But I know what you mean .

Thanks appreciate it

 

[robinbanks]

'Wet' is obviously a good approach

Pulling the carpet back/covering underside from splashes and running a low feed rate water supply to a battery grinder could work; dare say it's easier to make a mess than the dry approach though

 

[jcaan]

Where?

On rhe side wall where the socket is spurring to the fused switch box. I've uploaded that pic too.

 

[jcaan]

I have used wall chasers in carpeted houses.

Mine is a cheapo Titan one from Screwfix. I connect it to one of my Festool dust extractors. Dust is pretty minimal provided that you go sufficiently deep the first time. It you make the mistake of not going deep the first time, if you do a second run, the dust will shoot out of the slots. You do get a bit of dust as you first plunge in but once the base of the tool is flat with the wall, there really is very little dust.

The Titan includes a tool (read:chisel) to snap out the brick and plaster.

A downside is that, because of the length of the tool, you will only be able to start the channel about 20cm up from the floor.

An advantage is that because it had two blades, the slots are guaranteed to be parallel.

How deep do you think is important for a couple of cables. Twin and earth and maybe aerial and ethernet too.

 

[robinbanks]

If you're putting T&E in you'll need to create a safe zone by installing a visible accessory on the vertical / horizontal line of the cable run, btw. If the cable is to be buried less than 50mm deep you'd be wise to consider adding RCD based protection if it's not already there

 

[jcaan]

If you're putting T&E in you'll need to create a safe zone by installing a visible accessory on the vertical / horizontal line of the cable run, btw. If the cable is to be buried less than 50mm deep you'd be wise to consider adding RCD based protection if it's not already there

Very interesting!

I know the lads here have gave me some great options.

But if I was going through the route of installing a socket. I thought I did have to use a twin and E ?? What other option was there?

Secondly what do you mean by visible accessory ?

I believe the sockets are already protected by RCD.

 

[aveatry]

aveatry said:
if you use a standard vac with it you will also kill the vac

Nonsense. Chasing those slot edges out will generate about a couple of tablespoons of dust. If a vac bag/bagless can't handle that without blowing up it'd be useless for cleaning an average sized house

Maybe not the one time maybe not the second but it will - I know as I have done it.
The bags are not designed for the calcium powder like dust that it a grinder can create.

 

[aveatry]

T



Thanks but I don't quite understand the diagrams you have just posted ?

Sunray has basically drawn you a picture of what I said to do.

 

[aveatry]

Something I have done a quite a few times is use a normal wood hand saw to cut two slits side by side as wide as needed to accommodate the cable or trunking then use a hand chisel to chisel out the bit between the slits which should then chisel out quite easily. This way minimises the dust, another trick is to tape a shoe box to the wall just under where you are working so that the bits that fall do not fall a long way and hit the floor in a could of dust and keep moving it up as you go.
Yes the saw looses it teeth as they wear down quick doing that but its that saw that I replaced because it had lost its edge but I did not throw it away

 

[robinbanks]

Secondly what do you mean by visible accessory ?

A socket would be a visible accessory and it's a rule that it creates a safe zone extending horizontally and vertically from it in which cables may reasonably be expected. This means you can look at the wall and say "there is a socket there, so that strip vertically above and below it, and or tha strip horizontally either side of it might reasonably have a cable buried in it. I won't just drill into it blindly"

The corners where two walls or wall and ceiling meet also create a safe zone

 

[opps]

How deep do you think is important for a couple of cables. Twin and earth and maybe aerial and ethernet too.

I am not an electrician.... I would recommend that you cut a wider, rather than deeper chase.

T&E in trunking, and then after you glue that in place, then run the other cables