Which VGA / HDMI switch

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I need to be able to send video (+ audio maybe) from things like
laptops, benchtop teaching "visualisers" (VGA or HDMI out), DSLR cameras(several HDMI connector variants)

to
Fixed school-type screens with VGA inputs
and eg TVs with HDMI inputs.

There could be more than one source (perhaps 3-4), but only one output at a time.

I see <$5 vga switches on ebay - are they OK, when there are others much more expensive?
Do they need to be powered?

Also there are HMDI to VGA leads - don't they need power, or do they take enough fromthe connector?



I understand the various HDMI -HDMI connectors just need simple adapters?

I'm guessing I'd need two boxes, one with VGA out and one for HDMI out.

Anyone been round the loops?
 
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I've just upgraded the lecture theatre of one of the Cheshire museums which was facing a similar conundrum. Their space is used for both in-house and visiting presenters. The in-house source is a Dell PC, but visiting lecturers can turn up with anything from a presentation on a memory stick to the latest whizzy-bang Apple Mac Book Pro. The staff had always had issues dealing with anything other than a VGA source. Their existing system was installed almost 10 years ago and was based on an XGA desktop monitor and XGA projector.

The project brief was to make things more up-to-date (1080p and WXGA resolution), to add compatibility with a broader range of PC and Apple devices, and to keep things as simple as possible to use for staff and visitors in both set-up and use.

The idea of using a whole bunch of little adapter boxes was a complete none-starter. I knew it would have been far too messy and unreliable, and that just wouldn't do. Image quality was another concern. The projected image is 5 metres wide, so any poor quality scaling from cheap boxes would show up instantly.

I knew I had to simplify the connections down to the basics of VGA, HDMI and video, and then send the output to the projector (via 40 metres of cable) in a format that would overcome the other issue which was interference from the hearing aid loop system that the VGA cable was picking up.

My solution was to use a Kramer presentation switcher. This is a multiple-input device (4x VGA, 2x HDMI, and two video inputs configurable as composite - Y/C - or Component) which also scales the inputs to suit the resolution of the display device and outputs in both VGA and HDMI formats. In my case I took the HDMI output in to a HDBaseT balun up to the new projector which has a HDBaseT input built-in. The rub doing it this way is cost. The presentation switchers are high quality devices and they're not cheap. The ones with fade-through-black start and the number of inputs described start at around £1400 inc VAT. Then again, the whole install including new screen, new projector, WUXGA res desktop monitor, Blu-ray player, upgrades to the graphics card output of the PC, the HDBaseT gear and the installation work came in at a shade over £11,000.

To provide a broad range of compatibility with Apple products I used adapters that would convert to HDMI. So I supplied USB C to HDMI, Thunderbolt to HDMI, Mini-Displayport to HDMI which covers most bases in the Apple world. I also added in a Displayport to HDMI for any laptop PCs not using VGA or HDMI, and of course there was a DVI to HDMI adapter. These were all quite cheap - £10~£20 each IIRC - so it's no big deal if they get lost or broken.

Converting digital to digital isn't expensive. It's not the same though for converting analogue (VGA at various resolutions) to digital or vice versa. You can't do that with a bit of wire. There has to be some electronics involved that reprocesses the signal to change its format. In my case the job is done inside the presentation switcher and the results are exemplary. On the opening night we had a speaker bring an older laptop running at native VGA at 1024x768 and the switcher scaled that beautifully to 1920x1200 res.

In your situation, if you're working on a budget and you want to keep the quality high then I'd suggest using the display(s) to handle digital and analogue and the required scaling. That means feeding a HDMI cable to the screen and an analogue VGA cable. If a visualiser has Component/S/composite out then choose the highest quality connection and run cables for that too.

On your cables you can get away with decent budget HDMI leads, but analogue cables of any length need to be very well shielded. Sadly most vendors don't know their arse from their elbow when it comes to how their analogue cables are constructed. For VGA these double shielded cables from CPO are okay https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0027HSXMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1 but I have only tried them up to 3m lengths, albeit in an electrically noisy and interference riddled AV cabinet, and they work fine even at very high resolutions. The construction isn't a patch on the Extron VGA cables I have; they're as thick as my thumb and could withstand nuclear fallout they are that well shielded, but then again they were well over £100 for a 5m length so it's not surprising.

For analogue video you can do a lot worse that Webro WF100 aerial cable finished off with video connectors rather than the usual TV or satellite coax plugs. Apart from being a bit stiff they're very well shielded, true 75 Ohm, and are designed to run at frequencies far in excess of what baseband video (composite) or high res Component will put down them.

If you give a better indication of the requirements for each display system is, and include the inputs available on the gear and the source outputs and resolutions then we can probably be of more direct help. If there is a cheap solution then we will help you find it. But equally if you need to spend some dosh to do it right then we'll tell you that without hesitation too. There's no point wasting time and money on crappy boxes that someone is going to have to replace sooner rather than later because they're not up to the job. :)


- Did we help? If so, hover your mouse over "multi-quote" at the bottom right of that reply and then click on THANKS. It's free to do it and is the best way to show your appreciation for someone's time, effort and knowledge in helping you with the problem you came here to solve. Do it now :) -
 
Thanks, but that's orders of magnitude fancier than I'm looking for.
This is me, with laptop/ cameras, turning up at schools/societies and wanting to plug in, or visiting speakers doing likewise, to show Powerpoint stuff mostly.
Screens/projectors + laptops sometimes predate hdmi, cameras don't have VGA.
The visualiser I used last had XGA out. Also an HDMI connection but I'm not sure if it was for input for picture-in picture.
To use it I had to physically undo the (school) desktop connection and replace with the visualiser.
Would a very cheap 2-4 in, one out switches do that, or what sort of problems might I find?
Cables are usually short, but then snake god knows where to a ceiling projector or whatever.

Camera 1 hdmi \
. . . . . . . . . .. .. . . > [HDMI selector] > [ hdmi > VGA1 ]
camera 2 hdmi /


VGA1. . . . . . . .\
Visualiser . . . . . . > [VGA selector] > screen
laptop . . . . . . ./


Some highlights from ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-In-1-Ou...566425?hash=item211d9a3619:g:a8MAAOSw~otWfgRG
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Port-to...227985?hash=item2106eeb511:g:AQcAAOSwM4xXbfdZ

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Port-to...227985?hash=item2106eeb511:g:AQcAAOSwM4xXbfdZ
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VGA-To-HDMI-Adapter-Output-1080P-HD-And-USB-Audio-HDTV-Video-Cable-Converter-DE/252709491051?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=41433&meid=18cecd0656cc43cfbc83c46b5b4a08e5&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=282322463819


Hdmi selector:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5-Port-...hash=item3ac7bf4bfb:m:mGRB20qZcPoNWexIGBHqzew
 
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Thanks, but that's orders of magnitude fancier than I'm looking for.
I had a feeling that it would be, and that's fine. I just needed you to understand the level of knowledge and experience on tap here. After all, you're asking a bunch of strangers for advice, so it's useful to know whether they're just keyboard warriors or peope with real life practical experience in this area. :)

This is me, with laptop/ cameras, turning up at schools/societies and wanting to plug in, or visiting speakers doing likewise, to show Powerpoint stuff mostly.
Screens/projectors + laptops sometimes predate hdmi, cameras don't have VGA.
The visualiser I used last had XGA out. Also an HDMI connection but I'm not sure if it was for input for picture-in picture.
To use it I had to physically undo the (school) desktop connection and replace with the visualiser.
Would a very cheap 2-4 in, one out switches do that, or what sort of problems might I find?
Cables are usually short, but then snake god knows where to a ceiling projector or whatever.
Thanks for filling in a bit of the background.

The sort of mechanical switches you linked to will generally work just fine. The only things to watch are that they're metal cased (for shielding), and that you use decent shielded VGA cables, and that there's sufficient power in the VGA output of your source to drive the cable length.

That first two-way mechanical VGA switch, that looks like it might have a plastic case. Have a look at this one instead:2 Port VGA SVGA Monitor Sharing 2 to 1 Selector Switch

Driving the cable properly is important. You're trying to get the image down all the bits of cable in the chain from source to display without too significant a loss. How much loss depends a lot on the cable quality, its length, and what other devices and joints the signal has to hurdle on the way. What you can never know as someone visiting 'after the fact' is how cheaply the install was done: Did someone who knows what they're doing install decent cable, or was it specified by a person with no real technical experience who just chose the lowest cost option without much understanding of the consequences?

The other immediate factor is how the cable is being driven from their gear compared to yours. The graphics card from a desktop PC will generally be able to throw a little more power in the signal down the cable so will cope better with longer lengths or poorer cable compared to a laptop. You can even up the playing field by using a powered VGA signal interface. This could be something as simple as a VGA distribution amp.

Why bandwidth is important?: When you have insufficient bandwidth and other problems such as impedance mismatches in the display chain then you'll start to see some obvious problems. You'll see ghosting (see link), a softness in the image as resolution increases, and in really bad cases there'll be bending and image distortions.


In order to specify the distribution amp you need to know how much bandwidth your intended signal requires. This will be determined by the native display rate of the projector. Since you're dealing in the schools market, and that's a market driven by price, then in my experience you'll be dealing with two resolutions in general in the field - SVGA (800x600) and XGA (1024x768). Both of these are 4:3 picture ratios. Most of the price-fighter projectors fall in to one camp or the other, but XGA should be more prevalent now within classrooms as the older SVGA models have died and been replaced. XGA is very common in the ultra-short throw models. You may come across some some WXGA models too (1280x800). Once you know what you're dealing with, it is fairly easy to find the bandwidths required online, but here's a quick summary:

XGA.........4:3 format.....1024 x 768 @ 60Hz = 71MHz
WXGA....16:9 format.....1280 x 800 @ 60Hz = 92MHz
SXGA.......4:3 format.....1280 x 1024 @ 60Hz = 118MHz

As a general rule of thumb, any peripheral device in the chain such as an electronic switch or distribution amp should have a minimum of double the bandwidth of your highest resolution signal. It's better though to spec at a x3 multiple if possible. As with all things, the higher bandwidth means better quality components and so that has an impact on price.

Now you know how to spec the peripherals, it's time to look at the claims of any manufacturer's gear to see if it matches up. Remember, if it's a mechanical switch (clunking buttons) then this doesn't apply as there's no electronics involved.

If you're looking at a device and the manufacturer can't give a bandwidth figure then move on to the next. It's not enough to claim "high resolution" or say it's compatible with some or other resolution. Just because a device passes a signal it doesn't automatically follow that it will do a good job.

If you're on a budget then go for used gear from reputable quality brands. Extron and Kramer are both very good. There's lots of their gear in the used market. It's well engineered, reliable, and cheap as used buys. My personal recommendation for you for a signal interface interface is an Extron RGB109. This is available as an 'RGB109plus' and an 'RGB109xi' but both do the same basic job. There's an RGB109plus on Ebay with a BuyItNow of £12. Absolute flipping bargain. This would have been over £200 new, but there's not much call for VGA gear now so used prices are rock bottom. [Type in: Extron RGB 109 Plus Video Interface (E152) ] You'll need a 15pin D to 5 BNC breakout cable to go with it along with a 15pin D female back to back adapter. Remember to spec for decent shielded cable even on the small runs.

I like the Extron because it has adjustable output power (peaking) which means you can tailor the amount of drive it provides to meet the needs of your display.


As for the HDMI switches, that's much simpler. The gear will either work or it won't. There's a bit more to it than that, but with digital there's a very definite cut-off point where failure means no signal at all. We call it the Digital Cliff. If the gear is crap then you'll find this very quickly.



- Did we help? If so, hover your mouse over "multi-quote" at the bottom right of that reply and then click on THANKS. It's free to do it and is the best way to show your appreciation for someone's time, effort and knowledge in helping you with the problem you came here to solve. Try it now :) -
 
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Thanks for the reply.
the -xi adds ADSP - useful??
I haven't absorbed it - what's the 6th output?
I see there's plenty of this sort of stuff for sale, some of which has been hanging for months.

Remarkable to see what used to need a large box, is now moulded into a cable.
£2.99 including shipping half way round the world: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-HDM...hash=item4b068b9f0e:m:mWo1EypmWEtCN3_LHoHiYPA

May glue myself a lunchbox together with a few inputs and switches, to save the rats-nest.
 
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Thanks for the reply.
the -xi adds ADSP - useful??
I haven't absorbed it - what's the 6th output?
I see there's plenty of this sort of stuff for sale, some of which has been hanging for months.

ADSP: not having that has never been an issue for me (I keep an RGB109plus on my van as a trouble shooting tool) but then again I use decent cables and professional displays.


Remarkable to see what used to need a large box, is now moulded into a cable.
£2.99 including shipping half way round the world: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-HDM...hash=item4b068b9f0e:m:mWo1EypmWEtCN3_LHoHiYPA
Yep. When the HD Fury HDMI to VGA converters first launched we in th trade were equally astonished. Up to that point most conversion gear took up at least 1 rack unit high.

At that price you can afford to try it and chuck it away if it doesn't work. Remember though, this isn't a scaler and it doesn't change the refresh rate of the signal. That's important because HDTV devices output at resolutions and refresh rates that VGA display devices might not work with. Any HDMI source running at 50Hz is going to be a problem when the signal is converted to VGA which usually wants to see 60Hz or more as a refresh rate. With the exception of perhaps 480p/60, most HDTV resolutions don't directly translate to VGA signal formats either.

HDTV resolutions
480p/60 (4:3) = 640x480 pixels at 59.94Hz refresh
480p/60 (16:9) = 720x480 pixels at 59.94Hz refresh
576p/50 (16:9) = 720x576 pixels at 50Hz
720p/50 (16:9) = 1280x720 pixels at 50Hz
720p/60 (16:9) = 1280x720 pixels at 59.94Hz
1080p/24 (16:9) = 1920x1080 pixels at 24Hz which is then frame doubled to 48Hz to reduce flicker
1080p/50(16:9) = 1920x1080 pixels at 50Hz
1080p/60(16:9) = 1920x1080 pixels at 59.94Hz


You'd need to check if any of those are supported as VGA resolutions by the TV or projector
 
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First wee camera I've grabbed (I have a bunch of DSLRs many)
will o/p
HDMI mode
Auto
4k
1080p
1080i
720p
560p

frame rates not given.

Live View mode is 30 or 60fps
but records vids at 48/50 fps
- whether set to NTSC or PAL.
No idea what it'll spit out from 6000 x 4000 images !

I don't mind tryng a few things but bits can take ages to come ,
so I'd like some options inthe lunchbox.

The -xi is ~same price as the -plus, to within beer money.
Those BNCs-
the Plus has
H/HV and V​
the -xi has
H and V and S​


  • Input: RGB video on attached 4' (1.2 m) male 15-pin HD cable with 3.5 mm stereo audio plug and cable
  • Output: RGB video on female BNC connectors for RGsB, RGBS, or RGBHV; audio on captive screw connector
  • 300 MHz (-3 dB) RGB video bandwidth
  • Compatible with computer-video resolutions up to QXGA
  • Buffered local monitor output
  • ADSP™ - Advanced Digital Sync Processing — An Extron exclusive technology that provides all-digital processing of sync signals, eliminating compatibility issues encountered when using analog sync processing with digital display devices.
  • DDSP™ - Digital Display Sync Processing — Allows the sync signal to pass through without altering sync pulse or width. Disables other sync processing features such as horizontal and vertical centering.
  • Three-position level/peaking control — Boosts and equalizes video signals to compensate for signal loss and high frequency attenuation that occur in long cable runs.
  • Horizontal shift control — Shifts the displayed image left or right on the display screen. Also called "horizontal centering".
  • Active PC audio to balanced audio interfacing — Converts computer-generated, unbalanced audio to balanced line level stereo audio for output on a captive screw connector.
  • Internal universal power supply
  • 1U, compact metal enclosure

Is there anything less handy than the Plus?
 
Sorry, but none of those are going to work via a 15pin VGA input.

Auto..............interrogates the EDID of display device via the HDMI-to-HDMI HDCP handshake. All the camera will see is the HDMI to VGA adapter and not the display itself.

4k and 6Kx4K definitely out for lots of reasons: compatibility, bandwidth limits etc etc

1080p...........VGA won't accept 50Hz refresh (too low), and the bandwidth required for 1920x1080p @ 60Hz is 186MHz, so you'll need some very high quality VGA cable to handle that or the image will look soft and distorted

1080i............'i' stands for interlaced; it's what we use in TV broadcast to get over the bandwidth limits of the terrestrial network. A VGA input doesn't know what to do with an interlaced signal (it needs turning back in to progressive, but that opebns a whole new can of worms) so anything interlaced won't work on the majority of VGA input displays.

720p............the bandwidth is okay but the refresh rate (50Hz for recorded) is too low and the signal format 1280x720 doesn't fit the standard VESA VGA formats - Check the display's manual in case there's an exception, and then double check it applies to VGA and not just HDMI or Component which should both be compatible.

560p.............ditto above for 720p



RGB109xi BNC outputs: R, G and B are the red, green and blue picture channels. H, V, and S are various combinations of sync signal.

S is composite sync. That means one connector provides both the horizontal and the vertical timing signal. RGBS
H is horizontal timing - V is vertical timing. They're used together (H+V) for displays that require component sync. RGBHV

There's also Sync on Green (SoG) which means that the green signal has composite sync added to it (Gs) so that only a three wire connection is needed: RGsB

The 109plus has the same options except S is labelled H/V so that one socket does two jobs: H for component sync and H/V (or S if you prefer) for composite sync.


"Is there anything less handy than the Plus?"
Not sure what you mean by that.
 
"Is there anything less handy than the Plus?"
I meant is there anything which is easier to do with the earllier model - sometimes things "improve" by changing from manual to auto and everyone moans, sort of thing.

Something's odd if none of those outputs is convertible to any sort of ..GA.
I checked an old Nikon body which only has similar numbers, and I know people do use old VGA monitors somehow with those. Something else must be going on - I'll just suck it and see.

You can imagine what it would be like phoning an intended school/society/hall and asking what their screen can use.
I sometimes teach at a school where they have a "smart" screen. They think it's a computer, and nobody has a clue how to use it.
Technician wanted to throw a microscope in the skip because it was dangerous. It kept blowing bulbs. "Could kill someone - better be on the safe side. This is a school. We can't take any risks, you know". I got "How dare you be so impertinent?" glares when I asked to have a look. All marked with heiroglyphics - "6VAC" on the bulb, "230VAC" hidden on both side of the bulb cover on the microscope.

Thanks again for your patience. I'm sure this thread will be useful to others.
 
I meant is there anything which is easier to do with the earllier model - sometimes things "improve" by changing from manual to auto and everyone moans, sort of thing.
The basic functionality is the same on both models: Buffer the signal so it can drive a local monitor and a long cable to a 2nd display with the benefit of being able to tweak the picture to compensate for cable losses. The only difference with the xi as you know is the way it digitises the sync signal. If they're the same (or similar-ish money) then maybe go for the xi for that reason. But there's nothing "auto" about the cable compensation. You have to look at the picture and adjust the settings on the 109 - same for both versions.

Something's odd if none of those outputs is convertible to any sort of ..GA.
I checked an old Nikon body which only has similar numbers, and I know people do use old VGA monitors somehow with those. Something else must be going on - I'll just suck it and see.
They are convertible - but you need a scaler to do fundamental changes to the resolution and the refresh rate like that. Without one then either the camera is adjusting to suit the monitor (I suppose that's possible in theory if it can read the analogue DDC channel through the HDMI to VGA adapter), or the monitor supports one or more HDTV resolutions via it's VGA input (I've just installed a Dell Ultrasharp 1920x1200 that supports 1920x1080p @ 59.94Hz via VGA, but not 720p or anything lower). That, or incoming signal to the monitor is displayed as a smaller window rather than filling the entire screen. Definitely check with your camera guys though.

If neither the camera nor the monitor are capable of accommodating the other then you need a scaler. It'll take the incoming signal, sample it on-the-fly, and then map it to a new output resolution as well as converting from digital to analogue if that's what you require.Something along the lines of a used DVDO VP50 would fulfil your requirements to convert both ways, but I don't think you want to spend the £200-£250 average selling price for it.
 

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