Why cant I use 45 degree mitres for fitting skirting boards?

i do apologise masona

i mis read your comment as why

when in fact you said "THATS WHY"

silly me

big all

 

As I said masona - you don't mitre internal corners because wood moves - crucially in this application it shrinks. That reason IS NOT given anywhere above where I first mentioned it. Ok? Learn to read mate?

I learned that at about 14 years old - yet 10 posts here and nobody mentions it.

Saying you don't mitre because you can't rely on the walls being at right angles is nonsense - a mitre is half the angle whatever it is (or they are).
He asked specifically about the internal corners - no suggestion that the walls weren't square. His advice - which was right - was about INTERNBAL corners. If the walls had been crooked the same advice would have applied to external ones.

Pinning an internal corner to stop it shrinking? Is that meant to be funny? It's pathetic. Couldn't be more wrong.

The questioner didn't ask what you do - he asked why. I explained why then Al explained why. Then you claim you knew it - so why not answer the guy's question?

Presumably you didn't know how to cut a scribe or you'd have explained, since the questioner expressed difficulty.

34 years of doing it wrong and not knowing why - should be ashamed of yourself!

In future on the forum I suggest you read the question more carefully.

 

You might want to try getting back into bed and then get out of the other side.

 

Thank you for the kind words ChrisR,

Fair enough, everyone is entitled to their opinion, but to have a go is something else. You do thing your way and I do it my way, where's the problem in that ? I've been told I have a high standard carpentry work. I have to accept that's the way you are sometime, we can all be rude sometime and not know it, did someone rattled your caged ?

Did you honestly think I use pins on front of the internal mitre ? Have you not heard of secret nailing ?

I can pass a lot of secret tips, for example how do you cut a square or 45 degree angle without using a square, just you and the handsaw ? Even carpenter working along side of me don't know how I can do it ! Am'I shame of myself ? No, I very proud of myself condisering the disability I was born with.

It was you that started this by saying "I'm appalled that nobody knows" & "what do they teach?" You're also having a go at the others.

Read it again slowly and if you're still happy what been said & written, then I haven't got a problem with it and I will never have a go at anyone.

If you disagreed with any of the post's then state your reason without insulting people.

I'm sorry if I have upset you.

Come on ChrisR let's say on a friendly term, I've known you long enough on this forum.

 

If anyone doesn't read what I have written properly and has a go at me on that basis I'll jump on him because I have to waste effort repeating etc.
I daresay the questioner was not happy that his question wasn't properly read.

Using nails in an attempt to stop shrinkage is incompetent carpentry. I don't think you'll argue with that. So defending it is going to earn insults!

On refurbs I have I don't let carpenters mitre internal skirtings unless the room is dead square AND they're using mdf, which does happen. I have had a couple ask, but the ones I use most don't need to. I respect their judgement - they had to earn that.

Even with zero shrinkage, building still move and the line looks worse if its mitred.

If they were using timber and they mitred internal skirtings they'd be off the job.

If they said it would be ok if they nailed and glued the mitres I'd THROW them off the job.

All sorts call themselves carpenters, but if someone can't cut 30, 45, 60 and 90 with just a saw and a pencil, he's not one in my book.

 

It can be done if you know how to but can only do so for 45 & 90 degree angle only, it is so easy to do.. But I do use a square on quality finish.

Sorry, I don't see anywhere where I've has a go at you, if you have read it that way then it wasn't intended, then apologies but I will never insults people just as you did but then that is you. Your last post was much better.

Who said that ???????


Anyway don't worry about replying,

I've given a lot of thought and decided to call it a day, may come back one day, I don't know.

I hope I've helped some people here.

Cheerio[/quote]

 

Please don't call it a day masona. I haven't been here long but there are a few guys that go out of their way to help others, and you're one of them.
With any building job there will be different ways of doing things, so not everyone will agree all the time, but isn't that what adds a bit of interest to the forum?

 

Oh great, big round of applause to ChrisR for denying valuable help getting to those that need it.

Hope you're happy now arse hole.

 

Masona, you are wrong to go, you give good advice & help and your contributions are needed on this site.

Agree with Studders 100%

 

"hasn't open up in over 22 years, maybe I glued and pin it that why "

Implies that the gluing and pinning has "maybe" stopped shrinkage.


If you make a right angled triangle (on window board etc) with the longest side 2 units and the shortest side 1 unit, you have a 30/60/90 triangle. You can mark any convenient length on your saw and use that twice.

 

What is it I don't understand in all this about shrinkage?

If we use quarter sawn timber for the skirting board, then the shrinkage will reduce the width of the board. So why should the joints open up.

 

I had a look around my flat after reading this post. What I found was that the skirting boards in the bathroom had been scribed in the traditional fashion. Presumably because in a damp environment they will move more... although I would think they are less likely to shrink and more likely to expand here.

In the living room they had been mitred, both internal and external corners. Although I must say the mitre is very good, must have been done by a competent joiner (my experience with hand-operated mitre saws is that you can't just set it to an angle and expect it to cut the same every time without some effort and attention).

What did they used to do with architraves around doors before kiln-dried wood? Surely architraves were subject to the same shrinkage as skirting? The sides are easy, you could just fix them firmly at the top and allow the shrinkage to pull the wood upwards, but what about the top piece? It would shrink inwards and leave gaps.

Are dado rails the same as skirting in the scribing/mitring debate?

 

on hardwood arcatraves you taper to a 1mm gap outer edge
as the wood shrinks across the grain it closes the gap

big all

 

That was probably masona

 

Sorry, but that last comment had me in stitches. Nearly fell off my chair reading it.