Why don't they plaster in America?

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I've been watching a lot of Holmes on Homes and This Old House and have noticed that they never plaster after installing plasterboard. They tape the joins, sand, then prime and paint.

Is their plasterboard different to ours?

Main reason I ask is I have had to replace a section of plasterboard and wonder if I can excape trying to plaster it :p
 
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They love to dry-line and joint type.
It's what they do in North America/Canada.
Been doing it that way for years!
 
I've been watching a lot of Holmes on Homes and This Old House and have noticed that they never plaster after installing plasterboard. They tape the joins, sand, then prime and paint.

Is their plasterboard different to ours?

Main reason I ask is I have had to replace a section of plasterboard and wonder if I can excape trying to plaster it :p
its getting like that over here tape and jointing is taking over on new builds, i doubt very much that you can get away without plastering your replacement plasterboard, where exactly is the plasterboard situated? and can you upload some pics?
 
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Main reason I ask is I have had to replace a section of plasterboard and wonder if I can excape trying to plaster it

Is the damaged wall already plastered and how bigger an area are you removing?

I had to completely reomve a section as it was attached to a stud wall built by a creting. It is a long thin area. 2.4 metres by about 80 cm which is the whole area.
 
I had to completely reomve a section as it was attached to a stud wall built by a creting. It is a long thin area. 2.4 metres by about 80 cm which is the whole area.
Can you clarify?
So is this the whole area, ie no other boards butted up to or going to be joined when you make repair?
or is the area part of an existing wall and you are going to have to butt/join up to other boards on the wall?
If this section is part of an existing wall surface, are the boards on that wall plaster finished or not?
Do you now if the board you removed is 9.5mm or 12.5 thick, not including any plaster on it's surface or could you tell us the depth between the stud work and your finished wall surface?

I ask these question because if wish to avoid plastering you will the replacement close to level, ideally with a tapered edge on the joints, if the joints are not in either external/internal corners.
May I add, there is likely to be no cost or time saving using a joint taped method, over a plaster finished method.

Joint tape method will involve:
taping joints
applying joint compound (three applications at different widths over tape)
sanding down (after each application)
priming surface for decoration
 
Ive lived in america, and done a but of work there too.

The reason they dryline and tape normally is for speed. Ive seen a whole 3 bedroom type house drylined in a day. and it was rubbed down the next, and painted later the second afternoon.

Another is to be beleived or not,.....

They are not many skilled plasterers in america, and it seems no one can be bothered to learn and the trade is being lost very rapidly.

EVERYONE drylines so the art of plastering is not needed. The still have renderers, and it mostly a lime sort of mix, It maybe flat and smooth but i just dont think its as perfect as when you skim indoors. Even though its meant to be.

They also have loads of skirting and architrave ( they say trim ) And they put it around everything so the edges never get finished and they are always hidden,not that this is bad or anything, but a lot of the trim things are finished so they get nailed in place.

Watch holmes on holmes you'll see the way the americans and canadians do things.

I cant wait for SPRAY FOAM INSULATION, how good is that? rather than in your loft with a mask and fiberglass itchy stuff!!
 
spacklers?


never heard that one...just had to explain to the wife clunge.....
 
I had to completely reomve a section as it was attached to a stud wall built by a creting. It is a long thin area. 2.4 metres by about 80 cm which is the whole area.
Can you clarify?
So is this the whole area, ie no other boards butted up to or going to be joined when you make repair?
or is the area part of an existing wall and you are going to have to butt/join up to other boards on the wall?
If this section is part of an existing wall surface, are the boards on that wall plaster finished or not?
Do you now if the board you removed is 9.5mm or 12.5 thick, not including any plaster on it's surface or could you tell us the depth between the stud work and your finished wall surface?

I ask these question because if wish to avoid plastering you will the replacement close to level, ideally with a tapered edge on the joints, if the joints are not in either external/internal corners.
May I add, there is likely to be no cost or time saving using a joint taped method, over a plaster finished method.

Joint tape method will involve:
taping joints
applying joint compound (three applications at different widths over tape)
sanding down (after each application)
priming surface for decoration

Thanks. The section has an internal and external corner so will have to plaster it. Never plastered before so nervous! It is right next to the new shower stall though so eyes will be drwan to my crap tiling rather than my plastering.

Cheers.
 
I replaced several metres of (paramount) drywall with tapered edge pb just taped and filled the joins. They are the flattest walls in the house. OK the house was built by Wimpey in 1970s, so not difficult. Follow the mixing proportions on the Easi-Fill instructions.
 

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