WHY ...Viessmann or the Remeha

[aboardepsilon]

I fit Broags all the time. Very good boilers.

Parts are no problem. The merchant who supplies them will have a 'first aid kit' of spares that the installer can pick up foc to fix the boiler first time.

Veissman, I have never fitted, but worked on some. Don't like them, aftersales can be hit and miss depending what area you live.

Vaillant good, but atrocious after sales service.

Ideal, forget them, unless you are glutten for punishment.

Worcester, ok but a nightmare to work on, excellent after sales service, but one has to ask how we all know that

There, and I said I wouldn't reply

thanks for the informative post

i have spoken to the Worcester tech department ..and found them very forthcoming with information...very easy to get to ...and honest and upfront .

the guy also said the 24ri would be more reliable than their combie boilers and system boilers........he even mentioned that i should expect the fan to start getting noisy after 4-5 years and expire a while afterwards .

that says to me ..a drop of oil now and again on the spindle shaft.........or strip down and replace bearings ..begore it gets that far.

i had a look at the Worcester fans on ebay ..they seem to have a PCB built into them ...what is that ..is that the main boiler motherboard?

all the best.markj

 

[looneyfitter]

the board on the fans is usually a hall sensor. This detects the fan is running and in general replaces the APS

 

[aboardepsilon]

another thing .Ive just taken that boiler sizing software thingy here

its says 8.6 kw
errr

as i see it the 24ri (or what ever you guys boiler suggestion you can change me to) has a minimum of 7.5
and max of 24 ..


but i also intend to pipe the heating over to my hobby workshop...for use when I'm in there in the winter ...

was planing on doing it with a myson wall mounted hydronic

my workshop is quite big ..double garage size 6.2m x 6.2m and probably would need about 3000 kw constant to keep warm..when below zero outside ....but this will only be over a few hours a week ...non some weeks.........but id have to plan..and warm it up slowly ...as freezing cold lumps of cast iron machinery ..stay cold for hours ..and will sweat condensate ....many of the surfaces on them ..the sliding parts are bare metal...so i have to be cautious with the heat ...

do you still think i need a 24kw regular ..



any advice appreciated


all the best.markj

 

[looneyfitter]

3000kw? What insulation factors do you have in the workshop? New boilers are modulating so basically alter the required out put automatically.

Bare in mind with conventional condensing boilers. you are better to under size the boiler slightly with over sized rads.

 

[aboardepsilon]

four single glassed windows ..all 3 x 3 foot

single solid concrete 4 inch block wall with outside rendering

double layer of acoustic tiles fixed to the inside of the apex vaulted ceiling....so 2x 3/4 inch one layer overlaps the other ..all joints taped and glued ....air bleed vents 3 inch in diameter at the top of the apex...this is bleed a little bit of the hottest air out ..which contains the most moisture ...works very well.

took 7500 watt to heat it in zero conditions before i put those tiles up .

windows were made for double glassing ..but fitted single ..didnt invisage what I'm doing now 20 years ago .

construction pic from 22 years ago

all the best.markj

 

[looneyfitter]

other factors to take into condsideration are how many live in your house? Do you prefer showers or baths? in my opinion I would go for unvented cylinder coupled with a viessmann system boiler.

How many rads do you have/ size of current boiler? Another rule of thumb for rad sizing is l x w x h 5 in feet.

 

[Agile]

With no roof on the workshop then its not surprising that it needs 3000 kW to keep it comfortable in winter.

But you might need a slight upgrade to your gas supply pipe.

Tony

 

[Whitespirit66]

listen guys .

the questions have not been answered .....and id hope to get some answers without insults .

you've told me to get x-boiler ..
but not told me the availability of spares or the price comparisons of the spares to myself .

Don't take it to heart. A bit of a leg-pull is par for the course for DIYNOT.

You said that no previous posts gave spares availability or boiler quality advice. If you can read between the lines of what I said

Remeha are good people to deal with, I fit these almost exclusively. The internals (gas valves, pump and exp. vessel) are sourced from the leading manufacturers, and Remeha add their own electronics inc. weather compensation. So no worries about spares availability. Remeha have been making condensers for 30 years, plus lots of commercial stuff

.

.....then the fact that parts are from leading manufacturers and they were one of the originators of condensing boilers, that says something about availability and quality.


P.S. Remeha and Broag are one and the same.

http://www.avantarange.com/


P.P.S. This is a PROPER Rover, awaiting time and TLC from me.

Untitled

• Whitespirit66
• 31 Aug 2010
• 1

 

[D_Hailsham]

another thing .Ive just taken that boiler sizing software thingy here. It says 8.6 kw.

I'm not surprised - particularly if your house is well insulated. I need less than 10kW for a 4-bed detached, but will be putting in a larger boiler, when the existing one expires, to allow for the colder winters we seem to be getting. Boiler sizing software usually assumes a worst case of -1°C and we saw -8°C last winter.

Incidentally I went nosing round some new show houses last weekend (a son thinking of moving into the area was our excuse). The were all 4 bed detached and they had either 12kW or 15kW Ideal boilers with Range Tribune cylinders. The boiler size was probably influenced more by the need to reheat the cylinder quickly than by the heat loss of the house.

 

[aboardepsilon]

Ive just had a look at the Remeha and i see that they are high tech ..lap tops plug into them etc ..

now that's put me right off

if anything ..im trying to get away from high tech ..to me hi tech means :- usually a high fixing price ....and confusion when it packs up.

Ive had enough of cars with elaborate crap all over them ...i don't want any more of it ... BTW nice P4 ...Think my next car will be a restored morris miner traveller

the Veissman.i don't see any boilers on the site that have outside hardwired programers../..

my idea of making it DIY
is ..

to have a programmer externally that can be replaced by any off the shelf programmer ..should it go wrong for a few pounds and not hundreds

to not have an expansion vessel ..ive known a number of people that have had to replace these at great expense .

to not have a pressurised system.

to have pump .....motorised valves all outside the boiler ..for simplicity.

i have a very clever electronics friend who says ..if constantly "on" no electrical PCB is going to last more than ten years without some component screwing up on it ...........and the more of these high tech gizmo's that are on this PCB.the more its going to cost to replace.

all the best.markj

 

[JohnD]

the Veissman.i don't see any boilers on the site that have outside hardwired programers

mine does

I have a 100 Compact conventional, for simplicity and the stainless HEX and the long manufacturers warranty..

Not pressurised; not a combi; external pump; external motorised valves and controls. Hardly anything inside the case. It is a premium brand.

The new 100 seems to be very good.

 

[aboardepsilon]

other factors to take into condsideration are how many live in your house?
one

Do you prefer showers or baths? in my opinion I would go for unvented cylinder coupled with a viessmann system boiler.

see my answewr below D_Hailsham reply

How many rads do you have/ size of current boiler? Another rule of thumb for rad sizing is l x w x h 5 in feet.

i have a parkray everglow .thats probably living on borrowed time ..its over 40 years old

Anyway .Ive been heating my house with paraffin for the last few years..because it was at first cheaper than anthracite, whilst i saved up FOR this boiler and other jobs ..did you know that the everglow was 77 percent efficient.

the paraffin despite being expensive .was surprisingly OVER 99 PERCENT EFFICIENT and only required constant 3.5 kws 24/7 ..in extreme cold weather .other times could just give the house constant 2.5 kw ..

anyway, paraffin price was rising each and every year .smelly fire hazard etc...but even this year only cost me £450 for 12 months.,

But its time to move on now ..
BTW Ive looked at all alternatives for heating ...each and everyone has a catch ..

all the best.markj

 

[aboardepsilon]

the Veissman.i don't see any boilers on the site that have outside hardwired programers

mine does

I have a 100 Compact conventional, for simplicity and the stainless HEX and the long manufacturers warranty..

Not pressurised; not a combi; external pump; external motorised valves and controls. Hardly anything inside the case. It is a premium brand.

The new 100 seems to be very good.

this one ?

http://www.viessmann.co.uk/en/products/gas_fired_condensing/vitodens_100-w_compact.html

and Ive just phoned the tech support ..got through strait away ..
he said ..to use the all weather function with external programmer with this boiler .Ive got to get to the commons .Ive no idea what he was going on about .

my programmer

http://www.buildingtechnologies.sie...ternet_uk/residential/instructions/rwb9_i.pdf

 

[JohnD]

Mine does not have weather compensation as it is not the latest model. I understand WC turns the boiler stat up on cold days so the rads get hotter, and down on warm days so it runs more efficiently and uses less gas to deliver just a trickle of heat, rather than switching the burners on and off frequently. I do not know how much the WC kit costs extra, but they say it can save up to 12%gas. Mine automatically modulates the flame size and heat output to maintain the temperature I manually set (last winter I turned it up to 80C for a few days when very cold and the house had been empty, and in warmer weather I set it to the lower "standard" temperature of 60C

This is a high-quality boiler, and to get the extended warranty you have to haver it installed by one of their trained installers (they do not charge registered gas fitters for the training, and they can be local independent men). No doubt the trained man would know how to connect the WC. When mine was installed he tinkered with the connection block inside and ran wires out to my external programmer, and into a duct to go the cylinder where my pump and 3-port valve are

the programmer you show says it uses an industry standard backplate, it looks like you can unplug it from the wall and plug on a Drayton or Honeywell or something if you feel like it.

 

[Agile]

i have a very clever electronics friend who says ..if constantly "on" no electrical PCB is going to last more than ten years without some component screwing up on it ...........

all the best.markj

Well you may think that he is very clever but I dont!

I can look all around me and see electronics which has been working for over 10 years. Five car radios, ideal boiler, hi fi etc.

In fact the only thing that has partially failed is the 52" plasma TV which overheats. But I think its only one of the cooling fans has failed and as I have put a 46" LCD in front of it currently its not accessible to me for repair.

Also a Motorola phone which is about 8 years old and a very upmarket model but it will not initiate the sim card.

Tony