will cooker point cope with new cooker

[plugwash]

Just to clarify, I won't be connecting these, either at the CU or in the kitchen/bathrooms. It's just to cover any future changes.

What I would do in the kitchen is run the cooker circuit to a cooker control unit and then to a 13A single socket behind the cooker.

That way you have a conviniant socket behind the cooker for the gas ignition now and can easilly swap it for a cooker outlet plate later if you decide to go electric.

 

[dandt]

We have made assumptions here....what is the breaker size, cable size, and does the switch have a socket?

Switch at cooker has a socket but I will replace for one that doesnt - have worked out through this site that extra 13A is an unecessary facility

fuse box is a brand called "EMMA"(?)
I had it put in when I bought house
it contains: shower B40 (dont know what the B means sorry);
some sockets (radial) B20 - this is repeated;
cooker B32;
main trip switch says 63A;
label says "80A 30mA RCCB....not to exceed 80A"
cable I am massuming is 6mm2 although its hard to work out area of a tiny circle(!) .. grey cable is about 11 or 12mm at its longest width if that makes sense
Anyway I think I'll be ok but I will leave some access points in walls and behind units incase I need to upgrade.
Reminder..
these details are provided so that you or someone can reassure me (as much as is possible on this site) that I wont burn the house down
Once again many thanks
this is a fantastic site..
excellent advice and respect given to non experts

 

[ban-all-sheds]

(dont know what the B means sorry);

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=76467#76467

cable I am massuming is 6mm2 although its hard to work out area of a tiny circle(!)

A simple caliper gauge with a 1DP resolution vernier is all you need to measure the diameter of a conductor.

.. grey cable is about 11 or 12mm at its longest width if that makes sense

That sounds more like 4mm - //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=201507#201507

 

[dandt]

thanks