Moving Cooker Connection

[tolly]

Hi I'm fitting a new kitchen and I need to move the 45A cooker switch so that its not directly behind the new hob. The cooker connection can stay in the same place, its just the switch that needs to move.

Only problem is that the supply cable isnt long enough to move the switch to the new position.

I have some more 10mm cable but what is the best way to connect it to extend the original cable?

 

[plugwash]

get some big terminal block (you can get 60A rated stuff i reccomend you use this) join the cable in the box where the cooker switch used to be and fit a blanking plate.

 

[securespark]

First of all, is the rest of the circuit wired in 10mm2?

 

[tolly]

Thanks plugwash.

Thought that would be sufficient, but could only see 30amp blocks in Screwfix book.

Trip to the wholesalers tomorrow morning then !!

 

[tolly]

Securespark ......

yes it arrives from the ceiling in 10mm2 and goes to one of those oldfashioned large cooker switches.

There is a 45a breaker in the CU.

 

[securespark]

Would it be better to leave the old switch in (siting it above a wall-unit maybe) to use a junction point? Got to be better than 60A choc blocks.

 

[Biggles..]

Why not use 10mm crimps to join the two.

 

[nozspark]

Was in a wholesalers that I don't use much and saw that they have 60A jb's, why not use one of them..

 

[plugwash]

i consider crips over 6mm to be specialist (special crip tool heatshrink gun etc) and i assumed this was a diy question.

leaving the old switch in place is an option if it doesn't get in the way or too hot i guess

as for the big JB it would work but isn't really designed for flush mount use (fine for a loft space or similar but not really suitable here)

TLC sell 60A stuff (http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLCON60.html) if you can't find any other source but the delivery will make them a pricey option for buying one item (and they aren't exactly cheap in the first place)