Will the electric board Still need to be called out???

[kr1s1991]

After reading various posts i went and had a look at the electric meter and noticed there are two wires coming from after the meter into a box which then has a single cable coming from it to supply the fuse box, the box after the meter has a switch on which cuts the main power off so if i have an electrician install a new consumer unit will i or he still have to get the electric board out as the only thing that will be done is flicking off the switch then unwiring the old fuse box and replacing it with a new one. Also what sort of price seems fair for an electrician to do this, i will be suppling the c.u.
Thanks again

 

[breezer]

it would be most unusual to have a switch other that the one on the consumers unit just after the meter, you could always test it by switching it off and see if your electricty is cut off, but it does sound most unusual.

It may be the box you are refering to is a 2nd "consumers unit" any chance of a picture?

 

[alexnic]

It's seems to be common practice for Scottish Power to fit a 100A DP switch after the meter nowadays whereby the top end where the tails from the meter go is sealed but the load side (consumer side) at the bottom has 4- terminals and entry holes which will allow upto 2-sets of mains to be connected .... is unsealed ----(good idea I reckon)

'Flicking' that switch will isolate all power to the CU so there is no need to inform the Electricity Supplier so it maybe the same case for you but as Breezer says ....check it first!!

As for the cost, £70 - £100 is fairley reasonable depnding on the size / type of the CU and more to the point the condition of the existing installation and whether it's easily accessable. In saying that it all depends on who is doing it

 

[Gees]

I have a switch in the same place.

Its always been there.. we have overhead mains here...

Located NE england

 

[paulfromswindon]

It seems to be becoming good practice to install a single pole MCB after the meter to isolate the supply. This prevents you having to pull the main fuse, and protects the electricity suppliers main fuse from blowing (the single MCB should blow first.

The other (much more common) scenario is that some installations have an RCD trip-switch after the meter which protects the whole installation from earth faults. This is most common in houses with overhead supplies as the earth connection is not as good as in underground supplies, but it's good practice in any installations. This, if wired before the consumer unit(s) can be used to isolate the unit. It is double pole and is usually grey, with a test switch on it.

GEES - if that photo is of your own setup, please be aware that the black device with the yellow button, which I assume is the switch you are referring to, should be changed. It is actually an old version of an RCD (it is a voltage-operated trip rather than current operated). They can no longer be tested and are not as reliable and safe as the more modern versions. Back when I was on the tools (I worked for the regional electricity supplier), we were not permitted to work on installations with these unless the customer agreed to change it, because we could not guarantee that it was safe. A new device would cost about 40 quid plus installation. I strongly recommend you change it, especially as it appears you have an overhead supply, where the main RCD is doing an important job. These trips are no longer permissible within the regulations.

In case anyone's wondering how I can tell, and want to check thiers, the old voltage trips are nearly always black, with a yellow test button, and usually say voltage operated on them. The newer RCDs are usually grey, with a grey button, and say RCCD or residual current circuit breaker or something like that on them. If you have a voltage trip, change it!

A bit of a reference to the voltage trip issue here http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.9.4.htm - good site for buying gear too!

Best wishes

Paul

 

[xbond]

I am running into a similar situation, I bought a new consumer unit and was ready to fit it when I realised that there is no switch to isolate the old C.U. from the main supply.

I live in a Southern Electric area in a 50 year old house, the only device able to switch the supply is the main fuse (service head) that is sealed.
Who is allowed to operate on this sealed unit? Only S.E. or any Electrician?

Is anyone here aware of any main switch installed by S.E. ouside the C.U. in newer installations? If so can I request S.E. to retrofit my installation?

 

[alexnic]

There have ben a few occassions where I have requested that Scottish Power come and fit a DP switch prior to relpacing the CU, it used to be a 'freebie' then they started charging in the region of £57 for this.

Now I am told of people who have recently had it done as a freebie' .... so I would imagine that your regional supplier would come and retro fit a switch.

 

[Gees]

Paul.. What do I fit instead of the black thing?

 

[paulfromswindon]

xbond:

Technically only Southern Electric can break the seals and remove the cut-out. In truth, there are many electricians who would quite happily pull the main fuse, but I guess that's a choice to be made, I wouldn't condone or suggest it. I used to be a sparks for SE so it was never an issue to me, but I came accross many broken seals, where work had been done - It was only ever a big deal to me once, because it was obvious that the customer had been bypassing the meter at some point. You have to bear in mind that the seals are to protect the supplier's system and prevent fraud.

I was told by an independant sparky that what he used to do was to break the seals, replace the CU then call SE out who would do a few quick test and replace the seals - I cannot verify if this is actually true, or recognised practice though. When I left SE, they were thinking of issuing special seals to approved contractors so that they could pull the fuse, replace it with a red seal, then the meter-reader would replace it with the proper one. Don't know if it ever happened though.

I did a job for a friend the other week on a new (8 yrs) estate, and there was an isolator, which looked like it had been installed by SE (as it had seals on), so maybe it's catching on.

It may be worth a quick call to SE to ask them. Check with SE themselves first about adding a switch, they may refer you to the contracting arm (SEC) who will definitely charge you. I've no doubt they would fit one (probably for a fee). In truth, this is only only thing I would recommend, as it removes any legal issues and allows you to isolate the system for yourself in future. If you are paying to get it done anyway, it may be worth getting an RCD installed to cover the whole installation instead of a switch - it would kill two birds with one stone - give youa means to isolate and add some additional protection.

Hope this helps

Paul

 

[paulfromswindon]

Gees,

You would need a Residual Current circuit device (RCCD or RCD as more commonly known)

It would need to be Double-Pole (DP), rated 80 or 100Amps current carrying capacity with a 100mA trip rating. You should also check that your external earth electrode (the copper rod in the ground outside with an earth wire connected to it) is OK with a good connection on the earth wire.

You should probably get your local electrcity board to quote for this as they will have to break the main seals.

Examples of the beasties are:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Consumer_Units_Index/Telco_RCDs/index.html - enclosure at top and breaker at botton.

or

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYWRM100slash2.html - this is a better one in my view, most standalone ones you find installed are Wylex - TLC or any other supplier would also be able to supply a small enclosure which it would be installed in.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Paul

 

[Gees]

Thanks Paul.. I should know better
I have all the gear to test the things as well

Supplied by company I might add. Coulldnt afford to buy the things......

I'll change that ASAP.
Earth loop was 0.3 Ohms last time I checked it....

 

[paulfromswindon]

No problem matey.

Earth loop of 0.3 is very good if you have an overhead supply, no problems there.

Hope it goes well.

Cheers

Paul

 

[kr1s1991]

Thanks for the replies, as for my switch it seems to be a metal box ( est.- 6"x4" ) with a switch that you 'flick' on or off rather than a push button or rcd, mine comes from the back of the meter which is near the front door which then goes nearly the length of the house to the consumer unit which is under the stairs ( i will try to get a pic when i remove the wooden panel ).BTW the house is nearly 40 yrs old and there is only one consumer unit,
Located in Gloucester

 

[breezer]

a bit far away to have a consumers unit? "and there is only one consumer unit Located in Gloucester"


(just joking)

 

[xbond]

Paul, thanks for your detailled reply.

I called S.E. to see if they would come & pull the main fuse, they told me I should call any NIC registered electrician (they didn't mention who would reseal the unit).

However that sort of defeats the purpose of installing the C.U. myself, since I'll probably be charged 50 pounds just to pull the fuse!

How complicated would it be for me to pull the fuse myself, does it require any exotic tool?

Are all meter people equiped to reseal the unit?