Hello all,
we had a wine cellar (floor hatch) built into our new utility room as part of the extension - except that the builders got it wrong and tried to use something completely inappropriate to waterproof it: a paint-on bitumen emulsion which is only good for damp-proofing, not underground hydrostatic pressure. We need a proper membrane or impermeable solid construction.
The best solution would have been a rigid polypropylene box built-in before the utility room was constructed above it, but it's a bit late for that unless we dig out a little bit of the floor screed, slab, etc.
Anyway, one solution is to make a box-welded butyl liner to drop in. Plenty of companies can do that for us. But I really need to know exactly how best to weld this to the edge of the main DPM to make the best all-round waterproofing. I want to eliminate the possibility of capillary action between the two mating membranes allowing water to creep up, over and into the cellar.
Anyone know much about the sorts of tapes and adhesives that could be used in this situation?
The construction is as follows:
The cellar has a base slab and an outer skin of blocks. The cellar cavity is about 1.7m x 1.2m and only 0.7m deep below the room's DMP and slab. After the cellar DPC is installed there will be a screed slab and an inner skin of blocks, atop which will sit the framework for the hatches. I'm not going to tile or paint it, so the cellar will just be bare block walls and screed base, with wine racks plonked inside and screwed down if necessary.
The hatch and inner blockwork have now been demolished thanks to the useful damp-proof stuff the builders used so we can start again with a waterproofing that actually works before rebuilding it.
think I need to be sure of the best way to adhere a liner to the exposed edges of the DPM around the hole so as to get the best all-round watertight seal - if indeed that is necessary. There are only three inches of the main damp proof membrane protruding around the edge of the cellar cavity. As the base slab, insulation and screed of the utility room have all been laid, exposing more of the DPM would require some breaking-in.
I'm also wondering if, when using a butyl liner, we should break a drain hole through the cellar base slab to prevent water pooling under liner and trying to float it and the screed floor inside it! With only 0.7m depth below DPM I can't see that much pressure building up, but you never know. Any thoughts?
Michael
we had a wine cellar (floor hatch) built into our new utility room as part of the extension - except that the builders got it wrong and tried to use something completely inappropriate to waterproof it: a paint-on bitumen emulsion which is only good for damp-proofing, not underground hydrostatic pressure. We need a proper membrane or impermeable solid construction.
The best solution would have been a rigid polypropylene box built-in before the utility room was constructed above it, but it's a bit late for that unless we dig out a little bit of the floor screed, slab, etc.
Anyway, one solution is to make a box-welded butyl liner to drop in. Plenty of companies can do that for us. But I really need to know exactly how best to weld this to the edge of the main DPM to make the best all-round waterproofing. I want to eliminate the possibility of capillary action between the two mating membranes allowing water to creep up, over and into the cellar.
Anyone know much about the sorts of tapes and adhesives that could be used in this situation?
The construction is as follows:
The cellar has a base slab and an outer skin of blocks. The cellar cavity is about 1.7m x 1.2m and only 0.7m deep below the room's DMP and slab. After the cellar DPC is installed there will be a screed slab and an inner skin of blocks, atop which will sit the framework for the hatches. I'm not going to tile or paint it, so the cellar will just be bare block walls and screed base, with wine racks plonked inside and screwed down if necessary.
The hatch and inner blockwork have now been demolished thanks to the useful damp-proof stuff the builders used so we can start again with a waterproofing that actually works before rebuilding it.
think I need to be sure of the best way to adhere a liner to the exposed edges of the DPM around the hole so as to get the best all-round watertight seal - if indeed that is necessary. There are only three inches of the main damp proof membrane protruding around the edge of the cellar cavity. As the base slab, insulation and screed of the utility room have all been laid, exposing more of the DPM would require some breaking-in.
I'm also wondering if, when using a butyl liner, we should break a drain hole through the cellar base slab to prevent water pooling under liner and trying to float it and the screed floor inside it! With only 0.7m depth below DPM I can't see that much pressure building up, but you never know. Any thoughts?
Michael