Wire a junction box like a ceiling rose.

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Hi, I have bought an empty ip55 round junction box (https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-7-entry-rectangular-junction-box-with-knockouts/30356) to fit in my shed (already wired) and I am attempting to replicate the following wiring using a connector strip:

1659359637072.png


Now... I've managed but I've immediately realized that I can't leave it like this. It's just a complete mess, a massive tangle of cables that does not look great and/or safe.
What would you suggest to use to do this? Would using WAGO connectors make this better?
 
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If it is accessible, nothing wrong with it.
Cutting the cables to the correct length would be paramount to a neater finish.
Otherwise, use a wago box with wago connectors for a super neat finish.
However, as far as I know, wago connectors are not considered maintenance free and should be accessible.
 
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If it is accessible, nothing wrong with it.
Cutting the cables to the correct length would be paramount to a neater finish.
Otherwise, use a wago box with wago connectors for a super neat finish.
However, as far as I know, wago connectors are not considered maintenance free and should be accessible.

This would be in the shed, screwed to the wall, so it would be very easy to access. That should not be a problem.
In terms of securing the cables so there's no risk of them being pulled out, is there any option? I am running them in a flex conduit so it's pretty unlikely but you never know...

4 Twin & earth cables
why is it a mess ?
that's what I thought before doing it :mrgreen:
it started nice and it ended up being a tangle of cables... maybe I'm just too picky :confused:
 
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The terminal blocks are fine, so are Wago connectors.
But, look at Flameport’s picture of the round junction box. See how the outer sheaths all goe right inside the box? That’s how a junction box must be finished.
Oh yes, and lid fitted too!
 
Using connector strip will always result in wires crossing over but this layout will (or should be) aboutas simple as it gets
1659382952037.png

Note how IN cable shows as over LIGHT cable and SWITCH earth is over both reds

Also similar in this variation
1659383628005.png
 
Note how IN cable shows as over LIGHT cable and SWITCH earth is over both reds
Is there a reason and advantage in that?

My method, as with ceiling rose, was always to connect all the Earths (say four) neatly and flatten.

Then, without tangling or wrapping around already connected wires, connect the three Neutrals and flatten them, then the three Lives and flatten them, then the last two, the Switched live and Light Live.

Edited - foorgot one.




Ah curvy much better.
 
When I do something like this, I strip the cables and cut the wires to the same length. In the case of an enclosure as you have, there is sufficient space to leave the wires a little bit extra long (which will make life easier, especially if you want to modify it later) so you have them say 180mm long in this case.

The trick is to get the wires (let's start with the earths) needed for the first connection brought up towards the inside of the box, whilst leaving the wires you don't want to connect yet left neatly away from the box. Ensure no wires are tangled at this very early stage.

I would get all the earth wires (sleeved of course), insert into connector without anything crossing over, ensuring no insulation is trapped under connector screw, no ends poking out, all wires secure. Fold neatly into back of box.

Repeat with neutrals.

Repeat with permanent lives.

Repeat with switched lives.

If you can keep each corresponding wire 'parallel to the other corresponding wires, so you have a nice neat bunch without any nasty kinks - and do the same with each other set of wires, it should look very reasonable.

If you cut the wires too short in the first place, it will be hard to neatly arrange.

But a good sound connection will always be the most important aspect here.
 
Is there a reason and advantage in that?
Oh yes most certainly. run the cables in layers wherever possible, save all the weaving
My method, as with ceiling rose, was always to connect all the Earths (say four) neatly and flatten.
I agree as the cables enter a ceiling rose and JB in a very different way
Then, without tangling or wrapping around already connected wires, connect the three Neutrals and flatten them, then the three Lives and flatten them, then the last two, the Switched live and Light Live.

Edited - foorgot one.

Ah curvy much better.
actually exactly the same technique
 
My method, as with ceiling rose, was always to connect all the Earths (say four) neatly and flatten.

Then, without tangling or wrapping around already connected wires, connect the three Neutrals and flatten them, then the three Lives and flatten them, then the last two, the Switched live and Light Live.
I would get all the earth wires (sleeved of course), insert into connector without anything crossing over, ensuring no insulation is trapped under connector screw, no ends poking out, all wires secure. Fold neatly into back of box.

Repeat with neutrals.

Repeat with permanent lives.

Repeat with switched lives.

using your identical techniques (E, N, L, SL sequence) I've drawn the wiring starting at the top (12 O'Clock position) and running clockwise, the outcome with both results in 3 layers of wires in the orange circles. It may not seem much but extending this to more cables the tangle soon builds up and makes future faultfinding/tracing wiring more difficult. Trying to lift one cable away for such work becomes difficult/impossible.
1659393186387.png
 
extending this to more cables the tangle soon builds up
There are no tangles either way.
Does changing which colour is on top in your diagram cause a tangle?

and makes future faultfinding/tracing wiring more difficult. Trying to lift one cable away for such work becomes difficult/impossible.
That depends which wire it is.


Anyway wires are not dead straight and exact length like the diagram which is why curvy was better.
 

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