Wiring a drayton RTS1 room stat problems

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Hello,

Can you pease advise, I just replaced my room stat from a satchwell to the drayton RTS1.

My CH pump stopped working so this is the reason I opted to replace the stat, my problem my old stat only has two wires and from what I've read there should be another wire at terminal 3 swich live.

I'm confused as to whether this switch live is a physical wire which I have to wire in or does this already exist inside the the stat housing.

Another thing is my old stat used to click when I turned it on but the new one does not.

Regards
Harry.
 
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There is a subtle difference between a electrical 'load' and a 'switch'
A load like a lamp or motor or element has a 'live' wire in and a 'neutral' wire out.
A 'switch' is not a load so it has a 'live' wire in and 'switched live' coming out.

A two wire room stat is just a switch, the switched live wire going to the pump or a motorised valve.

A three wire room stat has the same 'live' and 'switched live' wires, but the third wire will be a neutral (blue), and this is for a 'load' incorporated in the room stat.
This 'load' is in the form of a compensator which reduces the temperature difference between stat going off and stat coming back on.
The problem is you may not be able to make use of the compensator if you only have the 'live' and 'switched live' wires available, unless you run a neutral wire (blue) from new stat back to a neutral terminal at the terminal box.
Hope this helps
 
Hi mandate, your reply has really confused me more.

What I've done, the dryton RTS1 only shows one wiring digram. it shows the L N and terminal 3 call for heat.
I firstly wired the unit as per the instructions, Red to 'L' 'N' to Neutral.
later I found other wiring for this unit on the internet which shows wiring for a gas wet CH and for an electric the set up is as follows

Pole 'N' no wire / 'pole '2' inserted 'N' (call for heat) pole '3' linked to pole '2' / 'L' inserted last pole. This is the wiring suitable for the most wet CH systems.
But I'm still getting no click sound nor, is the heating pump coming on.
I'm now wondering if the fuse has gone as from what I've read there should be a 3am fuse somewhere, would this be next to the pump,?

Thanking you in advance for your continued help.

Regards
Harry.
 
Does your hot water work the pump? If the pump won't run with hot water, it isn't the room stat at fault.

If your new stat isn't clicking, then it's not wired in correctly.

The new stat needs a neutral to N from the junction box for the heating, a live to L from the programmer's heating on terminal, and terminal 3 needs connecting to the motorised valve if you have one. What valve have you got?
 
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My CH pump stopped working so this is the reason I opted to replace the stat
Harry, if you link the two wires from your old thermostat together, does the pump run? If so, your diagnosis of a faulty stat was correct.

my old stat only has two wires and from what I've read there should be another wire
Your old stat had two wires: Live feed (probably red), and switched live (probably black). There was no neutral.

But your new stat needs a neutral connection. This would be a job for an electrician - unless you're experienced with mains wiring, which I assume you're not.

I'm now wondering if the fuse has gone as from what I've read there should be a 3am fuse somewhere, would this be next to the pump,?
The 3A fuse referred to is probably in the Fused Connector Unit (looks like a light switch but has a fuse holder built-in too). Don't be tempted to use a 13A fuse (unless you like fire engines).

Good luck.
 
Wiring diagram for RTS1 requires a 'live' wire to go into the stat at L.
It requires another wire from terminal 3 (call for heat) to go to the pump (switched live).
These two wires complete the switching aspect.
For the compensator to function there needs to be a third wire, which is a neutral (blue wire).
You may not have this wire there because your old unit was just a two wire stat, so you may need to install one.
If you examine the wiring and there is just two wires, one will be the live and the other the switched live. you can test them to see which is which.
I suppose the first query is how many wires have got at the stat 2 or 3.
If you only have 2 wires you can't have neutral to N because you don't have a neutral wire. Obviously the electrician may have provided three wires but only two were needed for your old stat.
Sorry if its confusing, stick with it, everything easy when you understand it.
 

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