Where's FWL with his RCBO advice? Now that he's a supplier I can see why he's been softening us all up re those
Darren - to choose your board, you first need to decide what circuits you need, e.g.
1. Lighting - ground floor
2. Lighting - 1st floor
3. Ring - Kitchen
4. Fridge/Freezer
5. Ring - ground floor
6. Ring - 1st floor
7. Oven
8. Boiler
9. Smoke alarm
10. Burglar alarm
11. Outside lighting
12. Outbuilding(s)
13. Shower(s)
F/F separate from the kitchen supply so that it can be non-RCD. 12 & 13 might be better off on separate dedicated CUs.
Re the 1.0/1.5 lighting question, 1.5 would allow you to use a higher rated breaker if you needed to to stop nuisance trips of the lighting MCBs when bulbs blow, as an alternative to Type Cs, which some people frown on.
Then you need to decide which you want to be RCD protected, and which not. Some you should, some you shouldn't, in between it's personal preference.
Then you need to choose a board with the right number of ways on each side, plus spares on each side.
Then you need to size your circuits to match cable and MCB ratings to the loads, remebering to use cable derating factors for grouping and insulation etc as appropriate, and thinking about voltage drop.
Then you will be able to tell if that MK one on eBay is what you need. For the sake of the price of a meal for two at a halfway decent restaurant, don't compromise because you've seen a bargain CU.
BTW - don't think anybody has asked this - do you have a TT supply? If so, the specs for your board need to include a 100mA Type S (time delayed) RCD incomer, and ALL sockets MUST be on 30mA RCD, not just downstairs ones.
