wiring for a pair of outside lights and safely routing cable

[measureitonce]

Hi,

I'm after a bit of guidance please.

I have a pair of latern style outdoor lights that I want to put either side of my front door. I don't really want cable or conduit visible either inside or out if I can avoid it. The hall way will be replastered in a few weeks, so chasing etc not a problem, but obviously I want to get it right beforehand!

Internally on one side of the front door there is a ring main socket with the wiring chased down from the ceiling. Can I drill straight through directly next to this ring main to the rear of the outside light fitting, and then chase it up the wall internally to the ceiling void? My thinking is that it will be in the safe zone vertical from the socket further down the wall, or is this a no no?

The other side of the door, there will be a stud wall (not yet built) coming off the inside of the external wall at 90deg. THe light switch for the outside lights and the hall light will be mounted in this wall. Can I come straight through the external wall into the side of the stud wall either to the switch directly (depending on next questions), or up into the ceiling void with the switch cables. I'm guessing at best I would have to come throught the external wall at the same height as the switch to put it in the safe horizontal zone of the switch?

With regarding putting switch for hall and outside lights into the stud wall, what is the correct method of running the cables? I assume they should be in some sort of conduit, not just floating aroudn with the insulation.

Finally what would be the best way of wiring up the pair of lights and switch? I can get power feed from the downstairs lighting ring in the ceiling void. I'm thinking use a juction box and wire as per a ceiling rose, running T&E to each of the lights.

many thanks

 

[Chri5]

If you take a lne feed from the sockets, you will need to go via a fused spur.

Can you take the feed from the hall lighting as an alternative, you then end up with lights on a lighting circuit which would be more appropriate.

If you check the safe zones diagram in the wiki Uk electrics that should clarify the wiring zones for you.

If you are able to pick up the lighting lne I'd suggest you run cables for each fitting through the wall from the fitting, chase upward and in to the ceiling void, from there drop down to the switch point and at the switch point have a terminal block for connecting the cables.

Here's the likely termination diagram, obviously you will have either two feeds to the fittings or if easier to do, run to one fitting and then run from fitting one to fitting two. You will not have the second feed on for another light so ignore the cable marked "supply to next light".

If the fittings are exposed and likely to get damp, wet etc I would suggest use of a suitable sealant to prevent damp getting anywhere near the fitting terminations.

 

[measureitonce]

Hi thanks for your reply

If you take a lne feed from the sockets, you will need to go via a fused spur.

Can you take the feed from the hall lighting as an alternative, you then end up with lights on a lighting circuit which would be more appropriate.

I intend to take feed from lighting circuit, hence running the cables up to the ceiling void. I only mention the sockets as the cable run is directly behind where the outside light fitting will be.

If you check the safe zones diagram in the wiki Uk electrics that should clarify the wiring zones for you. If you are able to pick up the lighting lne I'd suggest you run cables for each fitting through the wall from the fitting, chase upward and in to the ceiling void, from there drop down to the switch point and at the switch point have a terminal block for connecting the cables.

My interpretation of the zones is that by having the socket there the cable woould be considered in the zone, albeit of the socket below, not the light outside as its over 100mm wall. If the socket were not there I'd have to chase to 50mm depth?
For the other light, I'm ok to come in to the side of the stud partition as long as the light switch is less that 150mm from internal corner, or positioned horizontal from the entry point. Correct?

Here's the likely termination diagram, obviously you will have either two feeds to the fittings or if easier to do, run to one fitting and then run from fitting one to fitting two.

So a JB not the way to go? would a JB not be better, avoiding the nead to run meters of extra cable to get two runs to the switch or one of the light fittings as you suggest?

If the fittings are exposed and likely to get damp, wet etc I would suggest use of a suitable sealant to prevent damp getting anywhere near the fitting terminations.

Thanks they are weather sealed, but i be sure to check and seal if needed.

 

[dhutch]

I was actually thinking about outdoor lights and safe zones last night, as prior to there being the rule you would simply run the wire down from the ceiling void to a hole and out to the light, but on the inside, there is no visible sign of it.

Unless you install a switch, or in this case, a socket on another circuit.




Daniel

 

[Chri5]

Hi thanks for your reply

If you take a lne feed from the sockets, you will need to go via a fused spur.

Can you take the feed from the hall lighting as an alternative, you then end up with lights on a lighting circuit which would be more appropriate.

I intend to take feed from lighting circuit, hence running the cables up to the ceiling void. I only mention the sockets as the cable run is directly behind where the outside light fitting will be.

Good

If you check the safe zones diagram in the wiki Uk electrics that should clarify the wiring zones for you. If you are able to pick up the lighting lne I'd suggest you run cables for each fitting through the wall from the fitting, chase upward and in to the ceiling void, from there drop down to the switch point and at the switch point have a terminal block for connecting the cables.

My interpretation of the zones is that by having the socket there the cable woould be considered in the zone, albeit of the socket below, not the light outside as its over 100mm wall. If the socket were not there I'd have to chase to 50mm depth?
For the other light, I'm ok to come in to the side of the stud partition as long as the light switch is less that 150mm from internal corner, or positioned horizontal from the entry point. Correct?

The safe zone extends through the wall. If the lighting circuit is on an rcd the chase depth doesn't matter.

Here's the likely termination diagram, obviously you will have either two feeds to the fittings or if easier to do, run to one fitting and then run from fitting one to fitting two.

So a JB not the way to go? would a JB not be better, avoiding the nead to run meters of extra cable to get two runs to the switch or one of the light fittings as you suggest?

A jb must be maintained and so would be exposed and not hidden. So avoid one. Daisy chain from fitting to fitting if 30p a metre for 1.5 TE is too much to stand

If the fittings are exposed and likely to get damp, wet etc I would suggest use of a suitable sealant to prevent damp getting anywhere near the fitting terminations.

The fitting might be, if it isn't you shouldn't be using something unless its fit for purpose. I was more thinking about the cable brick hole and fact that water can run down a wall and get behind the fitting. So sealant around the base of the fitting offers a bi more wet protection.


Thanks they are weather sealed, but i be sure to check and seal if needed.

No problem.