Wiring for hive active heating

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Just wondering how to replace a honeywell bdr91 with a hive 2 receiver

The boiler i have is a viessmann vitodens 100

Heres my current honeywell wiring

Does anyone know what wires go where on the hive receiver from what ive found out from other forums the closest ive got is this


But im not 100% on this

Heres the hive wiring diagram

 

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No that's wrong. The wires that go to N & L in your existing thermostat will go to N & L at the Hive. Both of the wires at the existing two L terminals, need to go in the same single L terminal at the Hive, including one side of the loop.

Then if you look at the diagram inside your existing thermostat the switching wires are 'A' which can be seen to be the common (in that it can make contact with both B & C) and 'B' is shown as the 'heating on' contact, also confirmed by the existing brown sleeved wire being connected to it.

So, you simply need to connect them to exactly the same terminals on the Hive. Heating 'Common' (1) and 'Heating On' (3)

So:
N = Blue
L = Brown wire and also one side of loop
1 = Second side of loop
3 = Green / yellow cable with brown sleeve

Job done.
 
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I forgot to add. The green / yellow wire is not an earth. It is actually a live wire and that is why it has a brown sleeve on it. It should go to terminal 3 as above.
 
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Thanks for the quick reply its ruddy freezing tonight and its located in the garage. I will report back tomorrow with a pic of the correct wiring for you to kindly double check.

Thank you
 
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No that's wrong. The wires that go to N & L in your existing thermostat will go to N & L at the Hive. Both of the wires at the existing two L terminals, need to go in the same single L terminal at the Hive, including one side of the loop.

Then if you look at the diagram inside your existing thermostat the switching wires are 'A' which can be seen to be the common (in that it can make contact with both B & C) and 'B' is shown as the 'heating on' contact, also confirmed by the existing brown sleeved wire being connected to it.

So, you simply need to connect them to exactly the same terminals on the Hive. Heating 'Common' (1) and 'Heating On' (3)

So:
N = Blue
L = Brown wire and also one side of loop
1 = Second side of loop
3 = Green / yellow cable with brown sleeve

Job done.


So here is the way you described just to double check is this right?
 
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I've had the exact same issue today, and the Hive customer support are useless as they can't support wiring! So, Lee42534; did stem's solution work for you?
 
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I've had the exact same issue today, and the Hive customer support are useless as they can't support wiring! So, Lee42534; did stem's solution work for you?

That wiring is correct and so if you have the same set up, copy it. If unsure post with your setup.
As for Hive tech support. They are excellent with their controls and fault finding with it. What they can’t be expected to do is work out what kind of crazy ass wiring has been previously connected in your house.
Trust me when I say for every well wired heating system we see, there are an equal number of dodgy ones. Wires running everywhere, using the fitters own unique colouring system.
 
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The advice I gave was correct for the OP and his boiler / thermostat combination. However as imiller9 has pointed out, unless yours is identical it may not be correct. Particularly if your existing bdr91 thermostat doesn't have the wire link between 'L' and 'A'.
 
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Thanks Stem. It did have and it all works fine now thank you. My point about the tech support is that they ONLY support the software and have no interest in helping with wiring. They could only suggest sending an engineer round at a cost of £100! I appreciate that some wiring can be shoddy, but I only had three wires and was actually only trying to go from a previous wireless thermostat (Tado) to the Hive. This should have been on any tech supports list of things they can help with, otherwise why are they offering a product that is self install? Tado originally sent detailed diagrams of how to convert from my previous BDR91 to Tado and I had no problems with it. Hive are just miles behind on this. If it hadn't been for your helpful instructions, and the fact that it was a very cheap Black Friday deal, I would have binned it altogether. I spent hours on the phone trying to sort it and they were no help what so ever. Logically going from Tado back to BDR91 and then to Hive has saved the day, with your help. Thanks.
 
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OK that's good to hear. Well done.

My concern was in case you had something different. Some boilers generate an internal 24v signal for their control circuits, obviously this needs to be isolated from the 230V mains. Adding the link between L and Common in this case would connect the 24v to the 230V and cause some serious damage.
 
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I have the same Honeywell BDR91 and planning to replace it to Hive single channel receiver. My combi boiler is Vaillant Ecotec Plus 832.
Should I just follow the same pattern as the above? The honeywell wiring of Lee42534 is the same and I am pretty sure it’s likely but just want to be very sure before doing so. Thanks everyone.
 
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If the wiring connections you have are identical then you can go ahead. Electrically speaking, the Honeywell is a simple on/off switch. The Hive is also a simple on/off switch, you are just replacing one switch for another.
 
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Thank you so much Stem! Here is my Honeywell by the way: And out of curiosity, could you please tell me what’s the purpose of linking L to A? (blue wire)

30E18864-35CA-47D1-9AB3-B89B6EE41153.png
 
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That wiring is terrible :eek: There should not be very much, if any copper on show. There is a serious risk of those conductors touching each other. Make sure you sort that out when installing the Hive.

As you say, the loop between [L] & [A] is wired using a blue wire which identifies it as neutral wire, but it is actually being used as a live, so it should be brown to identify it such.

Also, the green / yellow wire which is normally is used as an earth conductor, has been used as a live wire also. Ideally green / yellow should only be used for earth. Putting a brown sleeve on it is not ideal, but better than nothing, the OP's photo from earlier in the thread shows this. Note how little copper is exposed from below the terminals. This is what you should aim to achieve.

IMG-20161228-WA0002.jpg


There is a diagram printed inside the BDR91 lid that shows you how the thermostat is wired and how it works. N & L provide the 230V supply it needs to work.

Terminals A & B as I said before are a just a simple on/off switch. When the thermostat switches the heating 'on' A and B are electrically connected together inside the thermostat. So:
  • A live wire goes into one side of the switch [A] and for convenience it can be connected from the [L] using a wire loop
  • The other side of the switch goes to the boiler. It is made live when the thermostat switches the heating 'on' thus connecting it to the live, and so the boiler operates.
 
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