Wiring LED Strip Driver into 5amp Lighting Circuit

[ovaljason]

Good morning

I'd be extremely grateful for feedback on best practice for connecting LED strips (via an LED driver) into a UK 5amp wiring circuit so they can be operated from a wall switch.

Variations of this question have been asked in the past and I've read all the older threads, including: //www.diynot.com/forums/electrics/wiring-led-light-strips-into-lighting-circuit.318979/#2355626

I know my electrician will ultimately have to do this, just trying to get a consensus beforehand if it's allowed and safe.

My question is different to previous ones as it includes detail about power consumption.

HERE'S MY SCENARIO

I would like to connect 11.2 metres of LED strip (3528 smd 300 led) to a 5amp lighting circuit.

Power consumption is 53 watts (11.2 m x 4.8 watts per metre) so I figure I need a 5amp 60 watt LED driver.

Question 1: Can (in theory) a 5amp (60 watt) LED driver be run from a 5amp lighting circuit?

I know the output of the driver is DC12V 5amp, but does this mean that the "input" is 5amp too and ok to go on a 5amp circuit? Sorry if this is an ultra-dump question. The driver I'd like to use says INPUT: AC100-240V 0.8Max 50-60HZ if that helps.

(The load on the rest of the circuit around the house is low : approx 6 x 40w - 60w table lamps)

Question 2 : If possible in theory, is it likely an electrician would approve of the following set-up:

1. Take a 5amp plug (the little ones which are un-fused) and wire this to a dedicated wall-mounted fused-spur with a 5amp fuse installed (to overcome the lack of fuse in the plug and provide extra protection before the circuit board).

2. Take the cable from the 5amp fused spur and wire it to a 1-gang trailing edge socket (with a standard 13amp socket).

3. Plug my 5amp 60 watt driver into the trailing edge socket using its standard 13amp 3 pin connector.

4. Cable-tie the driver plug to the trailing edge socket and lock-it in place so no other appliances could be connected to the lighting circuit by mistake. (I could even put the whole lot in one of the big plastic junction boxes to further reduce the risk of the trailing edge socket being mis-used).

Very grateful for any feedback.

Thank you - Jason

 

[Taylortwocities]

If the input is 240v and the outut is 12v then the input current will be approximately 1/20th of the output. But your LED strips will never need 5amps. The load will be a lot less than 0.25amp. So no worries load-wise.

Lets hope your electrician can find a way to hook it into the lighting circuit.!

 

[ovaljason]

Thank you - I did not know how the maths worked with a transformer.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The driver I'd like to use says INPUT: AC100-240V 0.8Max 50-60HZ

That will be the current it draws at 100V. @230 it will be about 0.35A.

As for all the plug & socket malarkey, find a power supply that has a trailing flex to connect it rather than a wall-wart one.

 

[winston1]

Thank you - I did not know how the maths worked with a transformer.

It is NOT a transformer. You said yourself it was a 12volt power supply.

 

[DaftPunk]

They are electronic TRANSFORMERS. Jeez give the broken record act a rest

 

[winston1]

They are electronic TRANSFORMERS. Jeez give the broken record act a rest

No such thing as an electronic transformer. Transformers are AC devices. LED strips require DC. The OP has a DC power supply.

There is a 9 page thread on this subject. Read it.

 

[DaftPunk]

I have read it and it concludes nothing. Go on google. Search for electronic transformer and try tell me they don't exist.

 

[winston1]

I have read it and it concludes nothing. Go on google. Search for electronic transformer and try tell me they don't exist.

Google takes you to a lot of retailers mis describing switch mode power supplies. That does not proove anything except that those retailers don't know what they are selling.

The OP requires 12 volt DC. In no way can a DC power supply be described as any sort of transformer as transformers are AC devices.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Guys……….

PLEASE STOP NOW

Right or wrong, this is killing so many threads. And it is now boring.
Take it to the Screwfix forum.

 

[ovaljason]

Thanks ban-all-sheds. I now understand what the 0.8 means. I suppose if there was an 'A' written after it I would not have been so dense.

I've simplified my connection plan. I'll suggest my electrician replaces the 5amp 'baby' socket with a 5amp fused spur with a cable outlet that connects the driver directly.

Thanks again, everyone.

 

[winston1]

I've simplified my connection plan. I'll suggest my electrician replaces the 5amp 'baby' socket with a 5amp fused spur with a cable outlet that connects the driver directly.

Thanks again, everyone.

Fused spur units are not used on lighting circiits, nor are they necessary as lighting circuits are already fused at 6 amps. All you need is a switch and flex outlet or else a 2 amp plug and socket.

 

[ovaljason]

Thank you, Winston.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What would be the point of a 2A socket?

Fused spur

Here's one fused to a horseshoe:

 

[bernardgreen]

as lighting circuits are already fused at 6 amps. All you need is a switch and flex outlet or else a 2 amp plug and socket.

While a 2 amp socket will carry 12 amps the design of a 2 amp fixture on a circuit fused at 6 amps is not a good design

12 amps is the current that can flow through a 6 amp MCB for quite a long time before the MCB's thermal trip will operate