I have to replace my uncle's two port valve on his pumped CH and gravity hw system. As the thing is about 40yrs old I'm sure there will be wiring problems. Can you tell me how many wires there will be, and what they do, thanks
wiring of a 2port motorised valve
- Thread starter DIYedboy
- Start date
I haven't bought a new valve yet ( too frightened) I'm sure there are a million choices with even more wiring possibilities........I just want a non-computer super chipped 1960's style easy peasy valve and wiring.
This will be easy.
First buy a Honeywell V4043H1056.
Do the plumbing first, leaving the old valve connected electrically, and manually latch the new valve open so that the heating will work.
Then post back here with the make/model of the old valve and the colours of its wires.
If you can't identify the old wires at the wiring centre (or programmer), then remove the cover from the old valve and look at what the wires connect to. You're looking to identify these:-
Live and neutral for the motor.
A pair of wires to the microswitch.
A earth.
The relevant colours on the Honeywell are:-
Motor: brown and blue.
Microswitch: grey and orange.
Earth: green/yellow.
First buy a Honeywell V4043H1056.
Do the plumbing first, leaving the old valve connected electrically, and manually latch the new valve open so that the heating will work.
Then post back here with the make/model of the old valve and the colours of its wires.
If you can't identify the old wires at the wiring centre (or programmer), then remove the cover from the old valve and look at what the wires connect to. You're looking to identify these:-
Live and neutral for the motor.
A pair of wires to the microswitch.
A earth.
The relevant colours on the Honeywell are:-
Motor: brown and blue.
Microswitch: grey and orange.
Earth: green/yellow.
Thanks Softus, I will attempt this monumental task at the weekend and report back.The old valve didn't have a microswitch so I taped up the grey and orange on the honeywell.
I'm tryin to fix my uncle's heating (installed 1970), but each time I do something another fault occurs. Latest one, replaced motorised valve, downstairs rad feeds now red hot but HW circuit not flowing (22mm pumped, back boiler). I've spent 3 days replacing a rad, draining, bleeding, redraining new valve, refilling, no HW now.............................I need a priest!
I'm tryin to fix my uncle's heating (installed 1970), but each time I do something another fault occurs. Latest one, replaced motorised valve, downstairs rad feeds now red hot but HW circuit not flowing (22mm pumped, back boiler). I've spent 3 days replacing a rad, draining, bleeding, redraining new valve, refilling, no HW now.............................I need a priest!
You don't need a priest, you just need a systematic approach to solving the problem.
For example, if the motorised valve microswitch is not connected, then what makes the pump run and the boiler light?
And, more importantly, what makes the valve close, and/or the pump stop, when the house is up to the desired temperature?
Could you describe/list the other components in the system, for example programmer, room thermostat, etc.?
Bugger, I forgot to note the roomstat, the programmer is a radnal? boiler Baxi 57/4m hw 22mm flow 15mm return pumped. programmer switches on/off pump and valve, ch tees off 22mm by boiler and runs all over in 15mm
So, to summarise the problem:-
You have a back boiler with both gravity and pumped flows, and common returns into an injector tee.
When there is no demand for central heating, the boiler does not light.
Is this summary correct?
You have a back boiler with both gravity and pumped flows, and common returns into an injector tee.
When there is no demand for central heating, the boiler does not light.
Is this summary correct?
Found my piece of paper, it's a Randall 3060, the strange thing is, going thru the chimney stack into/out of the boiler are 3 pipes: 22mm hw rising to the cylinder upstairs with a 15mm teed off n going down under the boards for CH flow (n all that is is a compression T, nothing fancy), a 15mm CH or HW return (not sure which) and another 22mm which is a return cos it don't get hot, but god knows what that does. The programmer will not allow CH without HW (there is only one zone valve and that is the new 2 port that shuts off the CH circuit. Ive now got the HW working, I think the downstairs rads work, upstairs definately don't, there is another 22mm inside the understairs cupboard that used to get hot n now don't, I think this may be the upstairs rad feed...................Jeez this plumbing lark is trickey innit?
That's not strange - there should be three pipes. However...
This should be 28mm. Are you sure it's 22mm?
WHAT?!
What makes you think that this is a return?
How did you achieve that?
Then shut off the downstairs rads and turn the pump up to maximum.
Strange cos I thought there would be either 4 or 2. The pipes are not 28mm, they are 22 and pumped, got the HW working by another draindown and refill. I do not want to close down the downstairs rads cos if I move the 40yr old lockshields they will no doubt start leaking and then I've got another job on my hands.
The 15mm is a return I presume cos it aint hot, just tepid
The 15mm is a return I presume cos it aint hot, just tepid
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