I want to fit 2 double sockets and 2 strip lights in a 12' x 10' shed from my garage, a run of approx 20 feet. The garage already has a 2 way consumer unit to power 2 double sockets which power washer and drier, and 3 lights fed- on a radial circuit - from a 10 way consumer unit in the house. I don't know the Circuit Breaker rating used. QUESTION : can I continue from the sockets to the shed and tap off for the lights using an FCU, or do I need another 2 way consumer unit in shed? What circuit breakers do I need? The feed to the shed will be overground, so what cable is best? Lastly, what's best, plastic or metal sockets? The shed is used for basic woodworking projects and as such will include : Chop/mitre saw, Drill, Biscuit jointer, Circular saw and both heater and fan as necessary. NOTE, not all tools will be used simultaneously of course. Thanks in advance and apologies if this topic is covered elsewhere.
wiring shed from garage
- Thread starter robcatty
- Start date
Sponsored Links
- //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:books
- //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
- http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm (all subsections)
- http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
- http://web.archive.org/web/20070327014113/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
- http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
- http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
- //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcb2
- http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/7.13.1.htm
- http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.1.1.htm
- //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:swa-gland
- http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/16/elect-inst-outdoors.cfm?type=pdf
- //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p
I suggest you find that out first then, as it would be relative to your requirments
You could install FCU, the would require to be within 3 metres of intersection ideally as close as possible and you would be restricted to max of 13A on sockets or go for mini CU.
You must consider the cable routing and the environment conditions and any external influence when selecting and routing cable.
MCB would depend on both supply and load, if cable is overground it would be required to be fitted to a secure structure or above head height at at least 3.5 m, that would increase if vehicles had access to the area where cables is run.
If the the shed is used as a workshop, I would go for metal socket and containment, to help prevent mechanical damage to accessories and cable.
I thought the OP was suggesting that the garage radial sockets circuit simply be extended into the shed, with an FCU off that circuit in the shed just for the lighting. If that were the case, then there would be no need to restrict the shed's sockets to 13A with an FCU.
Kind Regards, John
Sponsored Links
Indeed on review it seems that is the intention, whether it is a simple extension to do, would depend on other influences.
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 23,679
- Reaction score
- 2,668
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
We as qualified electricians are still debating what is required under the new Part P rules so can't really help there. But it could be considered as a new circuit and fitting a box with MCB's could be considered to come under Consumer Unit rules but also it could be considered as a distribution unit.
I say this as in the past using a FCU has not required LABC notification so has been used rather than a mini consumer unit to divide shed and garage circuits. Using a switched FCU as the light switch is a common method.
My shed is supplied from 13A socket and has been for years, where I planned to wire in but never got around to it.
In general if you only need a 13A supply then it's a lot easier.
But the idea that one can just keep adding extras is of course flawed. Start point would be in the house. What supplies the garage. Then into the garage what is the earth loop impedance and what protection is there i.e. is there a RCD and what size RCD. In other words is the garage supply OK before you add any extras to it?
Volt drop is another problem and again in the main we use the loop impedance to calculate volt drop. But the loop impedance meters are not cheap. One is permitted 3% volt drop for lighting however using LED bulbs one can select a bulb able to stand a much higher volt drop the same applies for HF florescent but not standard discharge florescent lamps.
I say this as in the past using a FCU has not required LABC notification so has been used rather than a mini consumer unit to divide shed and garage circuits. Using a switched FCU as the light switch is a common method.
My shed is supplied from 13A socket and has been for years, where I planned to wire in but never got around to it.
In general if you only need a 13A supply then it's a lot easier.
But the idea that one can just keep adding extras is of course flawed. Start point would be in the house. What supplies the garage. Then into the garage what is the earth loop impedance and what protection is there i.e. is there a RCD and what size RCD. In other words is the garage supply OK before you add any extras to it?
Volt drop is another problem and again in the main we use the loop impedance to calculate volt drop. But the loop impedance meters are not cheap. One is permitted 3% volt drop for lighting however using LED bulbs one can select a bulb able to stand a much higher volt drop the same applies for HF florescent but not standard discharge florescent lamps.
[as always, I presume you are referring to rules about notification, not 'Part P rules'] Yes, there is a debate amongst electricians (and others
), but I don't think that what the OP was proposing could possibly be regarded as 'a new circuit', since he simply talking about extending (adding sockets to) an existing sockets circuit. That would not even have been notifiable under the 'old rules'.Kind Regards, John
Are you?
Don't know why, because Part P is the same as before - nothing has changed, there are no new rules.
Thanks to all contributors to the question posed. JohnW2 is right in saying that I would ideally like to continue the run of sockets in the garage using 2.5mm to the shed and take a feed to a lighting circuit. As a DIYer and not as an electrician this method seems ok to me, and it seemspretty well received from the comments posted thus far. The consumer unit in the garage has 30 amp and a 5 amp MCBs fitted. I have yet to ascertain what circuit breaker is fitted at the house side. I am assuming at present that it's 32amp but will find out asap. Thanks again all for the positive feedback.
It would be wise to make sure that all sockets were protected by 30mA RCD.
This now a requirement for newly installed domestic sockets.
This now a requirement for newly installed domestic sockets.
Just in case anyone else is still paying attention to your tedious oft-repeated list... The Electrician's Guide that you highlight ad nauseam is still discontinued.
Makes me wonder how much more of your copy-and-paste boredem-inducing, self-righteous splfff is accurate.
Time for a new list, B-A-S?
Thanks PrenticeBoyOfDerry for your input. The main consumer unit at the house has a 30 milli amp protection installed.
- Joined
- 27 Jan 2008
- Messages
- 23,679
- Reaction score
- 2,668
- Location
- Llanfair Caereinion, Nr Welshpool
- Country
The poster has location as Manchester but BAS lists links to Welsh Part P and last time a looked Manchester was not in Wales.
True - the Wiki article needs updating.
The essence of a Wiki is that anybody can write it - I'm one of the people who could change it, but I am not the only one.
Oh - and by the way - there's no difference between the Welsh Part P and the English.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
