Wood Flooring Questions

[sanjayp]

Hi,

I have been into a number of flooring shops to ask about real wood flooring that I want to install in my lounge which has a concrete floor. All the shops have told me that real wood flooring has to be glued down to the floor because it is too "unstable" to have it as a floating floor. Now I'm not sure what "unstable" means exactly here so I was wondering if someone can enlighten me (I guess I should have asked as the shops instead of accepting it). I would prefer to have a floating floor in real wood if possible instead of wood engineered flooring.

However, I found some past posting in these forums in which WUL has said that real wood can be laid as a floating floor (contrary to what I was told in the flooring shops). Also that when WUL lays a wood floor they have to go back after a while and potentially trim the edges where the wood has expanded. Can WUL clarify this? Also, it would be a pain to have to trim the edges some time after laying because it would mean that skirting boards may have to come off again?? In fact, if skirting is covering the expansion gap, how do you know that you may have to trim the edges?

The reason why I prefer real wood flooring is that it is thicker than wood engineered flooring (commonly only 14mm) and so I figured it would feel more stable (+ it will better hide minor height variations in the sub floor). Can someone who has more experience tell me whether you can immediatly tell the difference between real wood and wood engineered flooring when walking on it?

thanks
sanjay

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi,
However, I found some past posting in these forums in which WUL has said that real wood can be laid as a floating floor (contrary to what I was told in the flooring shops). Also that when WUL lays a wood floor they have to go back after a while and potentially trim the edges where the wood has expanded. Can WUL clarify this?

Of course we can
It does happen from time to time that a customer calls us back when the solid wood floor has expanded more than the expansion gap can 'absorb'. Some times the floor is just 'stuck' at one tiny point and the problem is solved very easily. Some times, when there has been excessive moist (leak, accident etc) we have to trim the whole length of the boards butting against the wall.

Also, it would be a pain to have to trim the edges some time after laying because it would mean that skirting boards may have to come off again?? In fact, if skirting is covering the expansion gap, how do you know that you may have to trim the edges?

One of the reasons we use flat beading to cover the expansion gap instead of installing underneath the skirting board.
When using skirtingboards as cover, the 'hill' on the floor will tell you when you need to remove the skirtingboards when the floor has expanded to much.

The reason why I prefer real wood flooring is that it is thicker than wood engineered flooring (commonly only 14mm) and so I figured it would feel more stable (+ it will better hide minor height variations in the sub floor). Can someone who has more experience tell me whether you can immediatly tell the difference between real wood and wood engineered flooring when walking on it?

See here for thicker wood-engineered flooring.
with any quality wood-engineered flooring and more importantly proper sound-insulation you will not hear difference between walking on solid or engineered flooring.

Hope this helps. Regards WYL

 

[sanjayp]

Of course we can
It does happen from time to time that a customer calls us back when the solid wood floor has expanded more than the expansion gap can 'absorb'. Some times the floor is just 'stuck' at one tiny point and the problem is solved very easily. Some times, when there has been excessive moist (leak, accident etc) we have to trim the whole length of the boards butting against the wall.

thanks for the useful information.
Have you ever had to trim wood engineered flooring in the same way, or is it less likely to expand than solid wood flooring?

See here for thicker wood-engineered flooring.
with any quality wood-engineered flooring and more importantly proper sound-insulation you will not hear difference between walking on solid or engineered flooring.

does that also apply to wood engineered flooring that is only 14mm thick if laid with proper insulation/damp proof membrane?

I'm sure the Duoplank stuff you recommend is very good quality. If only I could afford it I notice that you also mention that this stuff is "one of the most stable flooring around...". What do you mean by this? If, as you indicate, that you wouldn't really notice the difference between this thicker wood engineered flooring and the normal stuff (~14mm) once installed properly, what is the benefit of going for th more expensive stuff?

thanks
sanjay

 

[WoodYouLike]

It is very rare to have to trim a wood-engineered floor. It happened only once, when there had been a washing machine leak (large leak!)

Any 'normal' wood-engineered on proper sound-insulation sounds no different than solid (only the 'veneer' with up to 0.6 mm top layer will sound more like Melamine Laminated).

Difference or even advantage of a Duoplank over a 'normal' wood-engineered is the way the backing is made: 11 plies of birchply instead of two layers of pine, which makes it indeed even more stable than 'normal' engineered floors. Plus the tickness of the top layer (6mm) allows for upto 3 - 4 times sanding (if ever needed!) The total thickness (21mm) also makes it possible to install the Duoplank directly onto joists, this is not possible with 14 - 15mm engineered floors.

Hope this helps to clarify things better.

 

[pkelly]

Hi, I laid Real Wood Floor on my whole doorstairs as a floating floor. What make is the it and where did you get it from?

 

[sanjayp]

Hi, I laid Real Wood Floor on my whole doorstairs as a floating floor. What make is the it and where did you get it from?

I haven't actually bought the wood yet. I kept getting different advice about whether a solid wood floor could be floated so I thought I would ask for clarification. I will probably end up going for an engineered floor.

cheers
sanjay

 

[blu3tang]

Hi, I laid Real Wood Floor on my whole doorstairs as a floating floor. What make is the it and where did you get it from?

I haven't actually bought the wood yet. I kept getting different advice about whether a solid wood floor could be floated so I thought I would ask for clarification. I will probably end up going for an engineered floor.

cheers
sanjay

The floor i have in the hallway/living room and dining room is solid oak and is floated.

The first time it was glued down and after 6months it started to move (approx 1 year it all had to be ripped out and relayed) . The guy who i got was recommended by a friend (the man's in his 60's and is a carpetner by traide, all his work is recommended by word of mouth) and i orginally wanted the wood glued and nailed, but he said floating, all the floors he has done is floating for solid wood, he would do anything but that. Sure enough its been down for nearly 10months now and not a movement in the wood.

the wood in the living room is 16m2 which goes into the dining room (12m2) , the wood in the hallway is connected via a gold strip at the door (the floor in the hall way was 1/2" higher than the hallway...