Wooden floor discolouration

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We used vinegar and baking soda solution, and now the floor has been discolored. Below are pictures of the normal floor (lighter) and the current situation. It's almost as dirt has gone in the pores.
This might have happened by trying to remove a black spot from the floor, and then transferring the dirt all over the floor, I am not sure. But when it dried out it was left in that state.

Any ideas on how to fix this?
 

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As oak is a very open pore timber (so is ash) pretty much anything you rub onto it will tend to sink into the pores. I suspect that is what you have in your wood pores - a mixture of vinegar, dirt (possibly also dye stuffs from any rag used to apply it - only unbleached or white cotton rag should ever be used) and baking soda. The conventional approach to stains in oak is to make up a mixture of oxallic acid (made from crystals) but it should only be applied to cleaned timber. So why did you use vinegar why did you use baking soda and vinegar, and what type of vinegar was it? Need to know before I can figure out an approach
 
Thanks for the reply.
We used plain baking soda (from sainsbury's) and plain white vinegar (sarsons distilled malt vinegar, transparent).
We used it to remove a stain that had dripped about 3 inches from the oven onto the wood to avoid bleach or any other chemical. Seems that by rubbing the mop on the stain, the mop absorbed and dyed everywhere else...
 
You probably weren't aware that oak has a high concentration of tannin, and when you add tannin to water it gives you tannic acid, a weak acid which reacts with iron to create a brown-black oxide. This is the stain you can see on some oak worktops, especially where folk insist on using fancy cast iron pans (and leaving them on the oak when wet....).

I'm no chemist, but I recall from school than acetic acid mixed with a base such as baking soda will form another acid, carbonic acid together with sodium acetate, before deteriorating into hydrogen and carbon dioxide. This can be near explosive and is the well known pop bottle rocket "experiment" so beloved of kids. I therefore suspect the carbonic acid has reacted with the tannin to produce the stain that's given you the brown, or maybe there has been some iron contamination as well? Surplus baking soda has possibly ended up blocking the open pores of the unsealed timber (even if it was oiled, the pores would still be open) as well as absorbing the brown oxide. But that is conjecture

Getting it out? I'd start by scrubbing/brushing with a medium/soft nylon brush whilst wetting with distilled or ionized water. This may take several goes as the baking soda doesn't dissolve that easily in water. It will raise the grain as well, so at the end when the top is thoroughly dry you may need to sand it back to cut the raised grain. If there is still staining it may be necessary to bleach the affected area and for that the best approach is to use oxallic acid which acts as a bleach on oak.
 
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You probably weren't aware that oak has a high concentration of tannin, and when you add tannin to water it gives you tannic acid, a weak acid which reacts with iron to create a non-black oxide. This is the stain you can see on some oak worktops, especially where folk insist on using fancy cast iron pans (and leaving them on the oak when wet....).

I'm no chemist, but I recall from school than acetic acid mixed with an alkali such as baking soda will form another acid, carbonic acid together with sodium acetate, before deteriorating into hydrogen and carbon dioxide. This can be near explosive and is the well known pop bottle rocket "experiment" so beloved of kids. I therefore suspect the carbonic acid has reacted with the tannin to produce the stain that's given you the brown, or maybe there has been some iron contamination as well? Surplus baking soda has possiply ended up blocking the open pores of the unsealed timber (even if it was oiled, the pores would still be open) as well as absorbing the brown oxide. But that is conjecture

Getting it out? I'd start by scrubbing/brushing with a medium/soft nylon brush whilst wetting with distilled or ionized water. This may take several goes as the baking soda doesn't dissolve that easily in water. It will raise the grain as well, so at the end when the top is thoroughly dry you will need to sand it back to cut the raised grain. If there is still staining it may be necessary to bleach the affected area and for that the best approach is to use oxallic acid which acts as a bleach on oak.

Thanks for all that info. No I wasn't aware of any of that, and I certainly learned something today!(y)

I'll try the oxalic acid straight away as I've seen a few videos on youtube of people cleaning wooden surfaces with it with great success.
One thing I'm puzzled about though: is it caustic to the skin or not? It seems it isn't based on this video, but a lot of people seem to be wearing gloves mask and whatnot. In the video, the guy says "despite being called acid, it's not harmful to the skin".

I'll try with a brush first, a couple of coats, and then try to saturate the surface with the whole mix as shown in the video and see what happens. I am attaching another picture (below the oven where the original drip was) You can also see my effort trying to clean it with a brush :(
 

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Try to scrub the pores out with water first! Then make sure its thoroughly dried out

And as for oxallic acid, it is an acid (not an alkali), so treat it with respect and wear gloves when handling it as well as a basic mask when handling the crystals. Wood finishing materials can often cause dermatitis, so it's worth taking some basic precautions
 
Try to scrub the pores out with water first!

That didn't work like at all.

And as for oxallic acid, it is an acid (not an alkali), so treat it with respect and wear gloves when handling it as well as a basic mask when handling the crystals. Wood finishing materials can often cause dermatitis, so it's worth taking some basic precautions

I would wear gloves anyway, it's just odd that some quite experienced guys don't, that's all.
 
Well, there's always something to be said for being cautious when handling chemicals. As a pro (joiner) I know it's potentially quite easy to become complacent about PPE (brought home to me even more recently as I currently have an apprentice in tow who must be given a good example at all times), but were I making a video I'd certainly do my best to ensure that I was seen using all appropriate PPE. It's your own choice, but l would certainly recommend caution over gung-ho any day of the week
 

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