I'm looking to clad the end of an island unit with the same worktop that sits on top of it and to try and achive this by cutting the ends of the top and sides at 45 degrees. How would I go about this? The alternative is to just have the sides but up against the bottom of the top but I don't think this would look as good. The worktop will be 40mm oak.
Wooden Worktop 'return'
- Thread starter ub7rm
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Dont do it.
Dont mitre the end panels to the surface w/t.
Allow the end panels to butt up leaving the w/t with a small overhang of say 15mm - 18mm.
Or, allow the w/t to run long and round off the corners to prevent people catching on squared off w/t corners.
FWIW: fix the end panels from inside the units.
Dont mitre the end panels to the surface w/t.
Allow the end panels to butt up leaving the w/t with a small overhang of say 15mm - 18mm.
Or, allow the w/t to run long and round off the corners to prevent people catching on squared off w/t corners.
FWIW: fix the end panels from inside the units.
Agree bad idea.
i agree a miter is very very difficult and you need a saw with just under 60mm cutting capacity at 45% bevel/miter
this will be depth cut minus around 30-45%
this all depend on the pivot point and how much the blade lifts away from the base plate as it pivots
this will be depth cut minus around 30-45%
this all depend on the pivot point and how much the blade lifts away from the base plate as it pivots
Last edited:
Sponsored Links
A half-blind dovetail would be a lot stronger than a mitre and give you no end grain on the top surface.
Thanks, I had already mostly convinced myself that it was too difficult to do since I couldn't find a saw that would have the required depth at 45 deg but you've pushed me over the edge. Out of interest why is the advice not to do it - purely technical challenge of achieving the cut or something else.
Thanks for the suggestion of the half blind dovetail - far outside my competence and I don't have the patience to practice!
Thanks for the suggestion of the half blind dovetail - far outside my competence and I don't have the patience to practice!
Measure carefully and send the job out to a bench joinery shop. They'll whizz along the enges with a router and a jig.
Even if you achieve a perfect mitre the natural oak top will move and you end up with one edge poking out over the other.
Why don't you buy blank doors matching your kitchen and clad with those?
As above, dont do it - a keen mitred edge and sharp corners on an Island unit arrangement could easily wear/fray and perhaps splinter, and if you have kids, sharp corners are a definite no no.
FWIW: its a simple matter to cut mitres in that kind of material with a clamped straight edge and a circular saw.
Not necessary but DeWalt make an excellent guide rail set-up.
FWIW: its a simple matter to cut mitres in that kind of material with a clamped straight edge and a circular saw.
Not necessary but DeWalt make an excellent guide rail set-up.
As above says "There's no reason not to do it if you've got the kit"
But you have a point about sharp edges.
The first time I attempted this was using the festool and it didn't quite work out, not sure why, but I ended up putting it through my mates table saw and it worked fine. You shouldn't get any splintering and I have always very slightly rounded the arris with fine sandpaper
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
