Worcester 24Si II PCB replacement.

[W4SIM]

Hello all

Just sat here freezing myself to death as the PCB has packed in on my Worcester 24Si II.

The guy who came out to diagnose it cant get it in till Monday, and neither can anyone else really. I can get a PCB by tomorrow but i want to know if theres anything special that needs to be done when a new PCB is installed, or is it just a case of switching it back on and away you go?

The PCB in question seems to be 87483004880, and seems to be at £180 + VAT. Does this seem about right?

Thanks.

 

[glasgowgas]

but i want to know if theres anything special that needs to be done when a new PCB is installed YES, or is it just a case of switching it back on and away you go? NO

 

[W4SIM]

but i want to know if theres anything special that needs to be done when a new PCB is installed YES, or is it just a case of switching it back on and away you go? NO

I think that kinda suggests i should sit and freeze till Monday.

Cheers.

 

[nicknox]

I think there are 2 different PCBs for that model so make sure you get the right one or it might turn out very costly.
Make sure you specify the serial number.

 

[Corgigrouch]

I think that kinda suggests i should sit and freeze till Monday.

Cheers.

Go put a jumper on...

As Nicknox has already stated, there are two PCBs for this boiler.. They are both pretty expensive and the price stated is about right for new

 

[W4SIM]

Iv found out which PCB is the right one for me, thats not the problem. The problem is getting someone out to install it, but ah well, only another 2 days now . . . . hopefully.

 

[fitz1]

firstly , i find a lot of engineers blaming pcb when 1 out of 20 i see isnt. What is your boile doing and not doing.

 

[W4SIM]

firstly , i find a lot of engineers blaming pcb when 1 out of 20 i see isnt. What is your boile doing and not doing.

Well this is what i thought aswell, as when the "Reset" light first started to flash it would maybe do it once every few days and then when it was pressed it would actually reset itself and away it would go. Then it was getting harder and harder to reset it i.e. you would press the button and it would still flash up. And now its just constantly flashing no matter how many times you press it.

according to the engineer it was the RESET button itself that was faulty and hence holding the boiler in its reset mode.

Now when i press the reset button i can hear it clearly make 2 seperate clicks, then nothing, like as if its not igniting for some reason - maybe because its stuck in the reset mode. Maybe, if that makes sense?

 

[mrgas]

or maybe the fan relay on the board has haddit

 

[W4SIM]

or maybe the fan relay on the board has haddit

I think the 2 clicks im talking about are the pump and the fan kicking in, then its failing at the ignition stage. Thats what the engineer thought aswell.

But even if the fan relay has haddit, wouldnt that mean a new board anyway?

 

[W4SIM]

or maybe the fan relay on the board has haddit

Called out a second engineer to test it as the first one turned out to be a waste of time. This guy did find the problem to be with the fan circuit on the board, and it still required a new board. He was also too busy for a couple of days to come round and fix it so he suggested i do it myself.

I told him iv been advised its not a home job i shouldnt really be fiddling with it myself . . . . he said people were just talking a load of nonsense!!!!

I went out and got the PCB myself and sure enough it took me about 30mins to replace it. Straight swap over, no messing about, just remembering where all the wires and connectors went. Power OFF, replace board, Power ON and hey presto, it fired up straight away and gave instant hot water and heating.

So no thanks to all the idiots above who said i shouldnt be doing it, the only thing i got from your advice was a couple of cold days and nights at home. If someone actually knew what they were on about i would have got the job done much sooner.

To anyone else thinking of doing this, as long as you have some common sense then remember, your only changing a board on a boiler, not an aeroplane for f*** sake.

 

[Gees]

or maybe the fan relay on the board has haddit

Called out a second engineer to test it as the first one turned out to be a waste of time. This guy did find the problem to be with the fan circuit on the board, and it still required a new board. He was also too busy for a couple of days to come round and fix it so he suggested i do it myself.

I told him iv been advised its not a home job i shouldnt really be fiddling with it myself . . . . he said people were just talking a load of nonsense!!!!

I went out and got the PCB myself and sure enough it took me about 30mins to replace it. Straight swap over, no messing about, just remembering where all the wires and connectors went. Power OFF, replace board, Power ON and hey presto, it fired up straight away and gave instant hot water and heating.

So no thanks to all the idiots above who said i shouldnt be doing it, the only thing i got from your advice was a couple of cold days and nights at home. If someone actually knew what they were on about i would have got the job done much sooner.

To anyone else thinking of doing this, as long as you have some common sense then remember, your only changing aboard on a boiler, not an aeroplane for f*** sake.

I Agree to a certain point... Its certainly not rocket science but since the PCB controls the gas valve there may have been issues reulting from a straight swap...

 

[W4SIM]

I Agree to a certain point... Its certainly not rocket science but since the PCB controls the gas valve there may have been issues reulting from a straight swap...

I was told about this aswell, but the engineer told me that most new PCB's are already preset from the factory so theres no issues there. So just make sure its preset and then its a simple job.

 

[fitz1]

hes right most are preset , but not all .

 

[lawrance]

I Agree to a certain point... Its certainly not rocket science but since the PCB controls the gas valve there may have been issues reulting from a straight swap...

I was told about this aswell, but the engineer told me that most new PCB's are already preset from the factory so theres no issues there. So just make sure its preset and then its a simple job.

So what checks did you carry out to check the board is preset?