Hi all, Our Heatslave 20/25 is smelling of kerosene and looks a bit wet round the pump. I've found a Danfoss BFP11 L3 on eBay but is changing it a DIY proposition? Do you have to adjust pressure and / or flow rate with a gas analyser when you fit a new pump or are they just "plug-and-play"?
Worcester heatslave leaking oil pump
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Replacing the pump is really simple, but unfortunately the oil pressure will have to be set to the manufacturers recommendations (by turning the screw marked + and -.
It's also a fact of life that the CO2 setting can only be accurately set by using a gas analyser.
John
It's also a fact of life that the CO2 setting can only be accurately set by using a gas analyser.
John
Thanks John, I was afraid that might be the case! OK, well at least we're getting into summer now. I think I'll just monitor the situation and if I can limp through to the Autumn, I'll get them to change it with it's annual service.
Just for a little bit of info - the 20/25 is usually fitted with an Inter B11C burner.
Depending on how this is configured, depends on the output - between 20 and 25 kW, obviously.
With a 0.60 80 EH nozzle at 130 psi and CO2 at 11.0 - 11.5% = 20kW
0.75 80 EH nozzle at 105 psi and CO2 at 11.5 - 12.0% = 22.5 kW
0.75 80 EH nozzle at 130 psi and CO2 at 12.0 - 12.5% = 25 kW
The (very) approximate air door setting is between 5.5 and 6.5
So you can see there are some variations!
The oil pumps usually leak from either the gland seals of the pump input spindle or the pressure adjustment screw, in my limited experience!
John
Depending on how this is configured, depends on the output - between 20 and 25 kW, obviously.
With a 0.60 80 EH nozzle at 130 psi and CO2 at 11.0 - 11.5% = 20kW
0.75 80 EH nozzle at 105 psi and CO2 at 11.5 - 12.0% = 22.5 kW
0.75 80 EH nozzle at 130 psi and CO2 at 12.0 - 12.5% = 25 kW
The (very) approximate air door setting is between 5.5 and 6.5
So you can see there are some variations!
The oil pumps usually leak from either the gland seals of the pump input spindle or the pressure adjustment screw, in my limited experience!
John
Ta John,
Looks like there's more to it than I thought. Been away for a few days (heating off) and there was a definite pool of kerosene in the bottom of the boiler housing when we got back, so I reckon I'm going to have to do something sooner rather than later! I take it that simply adjusting everything the same number of turns from fully closed (or open) won't get me near enough?
Looks like there's more to it than I thought. Been away for a few days (heating off) and there was a definite pool of kerosene in the bottom of the boiler housing when we got back, so I reckon I'm going to have to do something sooner rather than later! I take it that simply adjusting everything the same number of turns from fully closed (or open) won't get me near enough?
Sadly it won't, as the new pump is usually factory set to 10 bar, and your required pressure will likely be less than that.
However, pressure gauges are cheap (£20 or so) so you could first measure the pressure of the existing pump, and then tune the new pump to the same, leaving the air door setting alone......it would be pretty close!
John
However, pressure gauges are cheap (£20 or so) so you could first measure the pressure of the existing pump, and then tune the new pump to the same, leaving the air door setting alone......it would be pretty close!
John
Sadly it won't, as the new pump is usually factory set to 10 bar, and your required pressure will likely be less than that.
However, pressure gauges are cheap (£20 or so) so you could first measure the pressure of the existing pump, and then tune the new pump to the same, leaving the air door setting alone......it would be pretty close!
John
However, pressure gauges are cheap (£20 or so) so you could first measure the pressure of the existing pump, and then tune the new pump to the same, leaving the air door setting alone......it would be pretty close!
John
So you haven't the skills, yet still prefer to sit in a pool of kerosene rather than pay to get it repaired?
Sadly it won't, as the new pump is usually factory set to 10 bar, and your required pressure will likely be less than that.
However, pressure gauges are cheap (£20 or so) so you could first measure the pressure of the existing pump, and then tune the new pump to the same, leaving the air door setting alone......it would be pretty close!
John
Ta John, That's a good idea - I already have a 150 PSI gauge as it happens! living in the back end of nowhere, it's a pain (and expensive) to get someone out, plus, it generally pays to be as self-sufficient as possible.
You need skills and tools to benefit from any DIY advice. Repair by remote control rarely works.
If you do decide to give it a go......
Have some ptfe tape ready for the oil pipe inlet (the outlet to the nozzle is like a car brake pipe flare and should be leak proof.)
Check the connector between the pump shaft and motor for any damage or splitting.
Don't overtighten any grub screws that hold the pump to the burner - it helps to keep things in alignment this way.
The gauge screws into the port marked 'P' - its 1/4 BSP.
www.heating-parts.co.uk are a first class firm with quick delivery, with a good on line catalogue.......obviously there are loads of others.
Be lucky!
John
Have some ptfe tape ready for the oil pipe inlet (the outlet to the nozzle is like a car brake pipe flare and should be leak proof.)
Check the connector between the pump shaft and motor for any damage or splitting.
Don't overtighten any grub screws that hold the pump to the burner - it helps to keep things in alignment this way.
The gauge screws into the port marked 'P' - its 1/4 BSP.
www.heating-parts.co.uk are a first class firm with quick delivery, with a good on line catalogue.......obviously there are loads of others.
Be lucky!
John
Thanks again John. Part ordered - I'll give it a go! Tools aren't a problem. I've got some 1/4" BSP fittings and plenty of Teflon tape! Irritatingly, the pump that's on there hasn't been on that long (well, 3 years or so). Hopefully this one will fare better. They'll check the flue gas readings at the annual service this Autumn so if I can get through until then, it will be a good thing.
Hi John,
Just an update. Fitted the pump. All worked like a charm. The pressure the old pump was 8 Bar, so I adjusted this one to be the same. Only messy bit was that the feed pipe has an odd end on it so someone had put an adapter which had a parallel male thread on the outside rather than a tapered thread, into the female thread in the old pump and had tried to seal it with PTFE tape rather than a copper washer. As luck would have it I had one almost the right size in the garage and was able to fit that. All nice and dry now! Thanks again.
Just an update. Fitted the pump. All worked like a charm. The pressure the old pump was 8 Bar, so I adjusted this one to be the same. Only messy bit was that the feed pipe has an odd end on it so someone had put an adapter which had a parallel male thread on the outside rather than a tapered thread, into the female thread in the old pump and had tried to seal it with PTFE tape rather than a copper washer. As luck would have it I had one almost the right size in the garage and was able to fit that. All nice and dry now! Thanks again.
Nice one and well done!
I'm a big fan of the Heatslave series boilers - I have a 12/14.
Simple job cleaning the baffles and flueways too - There's usually a baffle fitting diagram on the boiler top (cover off).
John
I'm a big fan of the Heatslave series boilers - I have a 12/14.
Simple job cleaning the baffles and flueways too - There's usually a baffle fitting diagram on the boiler top (cover off).
John
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