Worcester oil boiler - not working for water

Hi.
HW only selected is 240 on terminal 8.

With actuator removed, it functions as if to open the valve but still no boiler.

Checked again and at this point orange is 240, grey is 0.2.

Valve is moving freely fully open and close.
Tested again and still no boiler!
 
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Just check the voltage on grey again and it goes to 240 when the CH is activated but only 0.2 when HW activated. Is this the issue?
 
Just check the voltage on grey again and it goes to 240 when the CH is activated but only 0.2 when HW activated. Is this the issue?
Yeah, that seems to be the problem, for some reason or other, the permanently live orange is not being switched to the grey wire on the brand new actuator when its energized open, can't figure that one out.

I presume the new actuator came with a length of cable allready attached and you just wired into the JB?. Just remake the two terminal connections (orange & grey) again to ensure they are making contact.
You could also, instead of below, remove the grey and orange wires, and check for zero resistance like below between them when you energize the actuator, HW on.

If you still have the old actuator you might (with care) stick the brown wire into a (switched off) wall plug live (right hand side plug hole) and the blue wire into the left socket hole, (you must press down the earth tab with a screwdriver), switch the M.meter to resistance and connect the probes between the grey and orange wires, it should read I, (open circuit), switch on the plug socket and it should then read close to zero, maybe 0.3 to 1 ohms which will prove that this actuator was/is OK. or stick a 3 pin plug with brown to live, blue to neutral, earth wire to the plug earth and do the same test after plugging it in.
 
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I think you should remove the two grey wires from ter.6 and the two orange wires from ter.7 (power off). With power back on ensure that you have 230V on ter.7, if so, switch off power again, insert the two orange wires in ter.6 and the two grey wires in ter.7
 
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Thanks, I will try that in the morning.

The actuator come with a new cable already fitted.
 
Hi mate. Tried that, removed both orange and greys. Tested terminal 7 and was 240.
Swapped orange and grey terminals, boiler not firing up on either HW or CH, the HW valve opens though as normal.
 
Sorry my mistake, didn't reset it after putting the power back on.

So with the orange and greys swapped terminals this is what happens -

No program selected - grey 240v orange 0

HW on - valve opens grey 240, orange 0

CH on - valve opens, boiler comes on, grey 240, orange 240
 
Hi mate, managed to get it all working eventually!

As you first mentioned it was the switch inside the actuator.
I stripped down the old one and could see a couple of small rounded screws so managed to get the actual inside actuator off and could then see the switch was held in woth 2 plastic brackets and one was bent so it was just not making enough contact for the switch to engage fully.

Can not thank you enough! It's been a fantastic help and great learning
 
Very good but doesn't say much for the quality of the actuators, so is it the new or old actuator that's installed now?.
 
I have the old one back on, you couldn't see the switch without stripping it down, I will keep the new one incase it's needed. It looked like someone had been into it before, rounded screws etc
 

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