Work that I can do, before someone skims with plaster

  • Thread starter richard7761
  • Start date
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richard7761

Because of finances, I'm trying to do as much as I can do.

I need some plastering done on inside walls. I ought to be able to fill in the area with something, then get someone to skim over with plaster to finish the job.

Can someone please tell me what I should be getting to fill in the paches where I've removed the old plaster. I've heard I should get some browning, but I'm not sure if I should get that product or not.

You see that it's just a regular brick wall that's taking the finish.

Thanks.
 
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I wonder what my suction surface is. Oh, sorry, it will be common brick.

So:

* Hardwall

* Tough Coat

* Browning

But which.
 
Medium suction use bonding
High suction use hardwall


Best get it level plumb and key it with a devil float


If it ain't straight/prepared to skim it will make the poor plasterers job harder..

You will also need a render bead for the external angle
 
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best this you can do is if your planning ton floating it out your self is to fix a stainless steel render bead to the corner. Get it plumb and fixed nice use what ever bonding hardwall browning mixe a half bucket up of what ever your using add a hand full of cement so it setts quick use clout nails if you need to. to set the bead then fill out the wings on the bead all the way along both sides.
your cables will need covering with cable capping wet the brick work down with a 50/50 mix of PVA and water brush it well into gaps joints ect mite need two coats.
hen start filling out with gear get it flat with a plasterers rule mite need to use two coats if its thick so it dont sag leave the first coat to dry out abit first up key it with a render comb then apply 2nd coat rember to rule off the wall and bead (ill tell you why in a min)
let it pull in firm up dont worry if it starts to crack just add a squrt of water in a spray bottle and rub it up with a poly float or sponge float then use a render comb or devel float to lighty key the sevice dont got mad and too deep 2mm 3mm its fine

now i said to rule off from the bead and wall because if you just try and patch up oull know theres a patch there and wont look right and mite even crack on the joints better to float out plumb and flush then skim the fall wall it mite take 1 more bag of finish soo what at least the job will be a full skim and not just a dodgy patch that mite need filling out sanding ect ready to paint

one more good tip is to apply scrim tape to the joints when its all dry and cleaned off plasterer will probs do this just before he skims it!!!!!
key up the rest of the wall with a stanley knife and scrape off any snots with the side of your trowel
rember dont add cement to the backing coat only the geat used to set the bead lol

a little insite in too what soo many people think a plasterers life is so easy


PS use the corner of your trowel the lightly scratch back the nose on the bead latter that day last knocings this will give the plasterers a clean corner to work off and when finished will look clean and sharp == a good clean flat smooth job ready to paint
 
Richard, get a "competent" plasterer/s in to see your job, get a couple of quotes and let the plasterer do it all,, prep and plastering. I know you said money was tight at the moment, but sometimes it can cost more to sort out a job that has been prepped wrongly than it can by letting a plasterer do it all in the first place. Get a quote as i said, then ask the plasterer if that will stand until you save up cost. It's not a big job looking at it, so it shouldn't cost that much to do. ;)
 
richard7761 where are you in the uk

Id say £200 all in for me to do it if your in my neck of the woods
 

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