I make quite a few cabinets for museums almost exclusively from birch plywood. I'm making some new things that want a 'woodier' finish so I'm toying with using oak but it's not a material I've used much before. I need to make some handrails (75mm2 uprights with some 100mmx25mm planks on the side) and half a mock shed (with 75mm2 uprights and plywood panels). If I use oak and veneered plywood am I setting myself up for a fall? Do I want green oak, air dried or kiln dried? It'll be indoors, will shrinkage be an issue? Can I screw it all together or do I need to use pegs for the chunkier joints? Anything else I need to worry about I need to router a few rebates and slots or should I give up now and use softwood and some stain? Thanks
Working with oak (help for a beginner)
- Thread starter nickjb
- Start date
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iroko has similar grain can be stained up to look like oak and cheaper
ferrous metal and oak will cause blackening [spots stains an runs] when the steel reacts with the tannin in the oak so use brass or stainless fixings and screws
and metal bar clamps need seperation if the bar touches it can mark especially where moister or wet glue activates the tannin a bit off card will do
you van use chisels and router cutters no problem as long as they are dry
do NOT use steel wool
ferrous metal and oak will cause blackening [spots stains an runs] when the steel reacts with the tannin in the oak so use brass or stainless fixings and screws
and metal bar clamps need seperation if the bar touches it can mark especially where moister or wet glue activates the tannin a bit off card will do
you van use chisels and router cutters no problem as long as they are dry
do NOT use steel wool
Thanks for the tips. The customer is keen on eco friendly materials which is a bit easier with oak than iroko
Is it only mild steel that reacts? Can I use Alumnium brackets or will these need a bit of card, too?
Do I want green oak, air dried or kiln dried if it being used indoors? A bit of research suggests I need dried timber but its a lot more expensive. I don't mind a slightly rustic look but I don't want it pulling itself apart after a few years.
Is it only mild steel that reacts? Can I use Alumnium brackets or will these need a bit of card, too?
Do I want green oak, air dried or kiln dried if it being used indoors? A bit of research suggests I need dried timber but its a lot more expensive. I don't mind a slightly rustic look but I don't want it pulling itself apart after a few years.
if you dont pay the price you take the chance
go to a salvage yard without a silly name and silly prices and get some oak panels or length off timber for a hand rail thats done its bending twisting splitting
even more eco
non ferrous = non magnetic off course stainless steel is magnetic but is coated to protect
go to a salvage yard without a silly name and silly prices and get some oak panels or length off timber for a hand rail thats done its bending twisting splitting
even more eco
non ferrous = non magnetic off course stainless steel is magnetic but is coated to protect
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Oak tannins react with iron, so any other metal or plated steel will be OK for internal joinery. Brass screws may need to be a bit bigger than equivalent plated steel as they can shear more easily
You would need seasoned or dried timber, as green oak will shrink and split quite a bit as it acclimatises
You would need seasoned or dried timber, as green oak will shrink and split quite a bit as it acclimatises
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