Needing to find same router bits

[2020c]

Wanting to find router bits so I can make some kitchen doors. I extended my small kitchen 5 years ago and one thing or another I just hadn't put the extra few doors on. Now, I think I'll do it before it turns into another 5 years lol. I prices about for 7 new doors and was getting quoted over 1000euro. At these prices in these times I think I'll make them up myself. I have the tools and skills to make them , I just need the same or similar bits now.

The doors are oak however I painted them when extending my kitchen. Now that the timber is painted, I am thinking of using cheaper pine and some birch plywood for the new doors. What's your thoughts on this?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Pine can be a bit (very) variable unless you can get hold of what is referred to as "joinery grade redwood" in the UK. If you can source it, alder (alnus glutinosa) a fine grained hardwood not dissimilar to some pines in appearance, or alternatively poplar (populus nigra) are both relatively low cost hardwoods often used for better quality manufactured paint-grade kitchen and bedroom doors.

Birch plywood should be good for the panels, but make sure you have 1 to 2mm expansion allowance in the grooves and leave the panels loose - no glue, pins or screws at all

Assuming that you don't have access to a Domino or a square chisel mortiser, in terms of the structure might I suggest using beech or hardwood dowels? Dowels are more rigid than biscuits and less obtrusive than screws

Router cutters? I'd recommend taking a look at Wealden Tool. Good range, good trade quality (no Chinese tat), reasonable prices, generally good stock levels and decent service (mostly next day if you order before 2pm). No connection, just a happy customer of 20+ years

 

[2020c]

Pine can be a bit (very) variable unless you can get hold of what is referred to as "joinery grade redwood" in the UK. If you can source it, alder (alnus glutinosa) a fine grained hardwood not dissimilar to some pines in appearance, or alternatively poplar (populus nigra) are both relatively low cost hardwoods often used for better quality manufactured paint-grade kitchen and bedroom doors.

Birch plywood should be good for the panels, but make sure you have 1 to 2mm expansion allowance in the grooves and leave the panels loose - no glue, pins or screws at all

Assuming that you don't have access to a Domino or a square chisel mortiser, in terms of the structure might I suggest using beech or hardwood dowels? Dowels are more rigid than biscuits and less obtrusive than screws

Router cutters? I'd recommend taking a look at Wealden Tool. Good range, good trade quality (no Chinese tat), reasonable prices, generally good stock levels and decent service (mostly next day if you order before 2pm). No connection, just a happy customer of 20+ years

Is there much difference from joinery grade and planned timber from builders merchants.

I have is a DeWalt table saw, DeWalt chop saw and a router table.

 

[big-all]

you need a 1/2 inch router at least 1300w preferably more than 1600w
you need to get the Ballance right ---lower power means slower feed rate but too slow you get burning

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Is there much difference from joinery grade and planned timber from builders merchants.

Yes. Whitewood is often pretty knotty and can be very stringy - joinery grade redwood is much clearer of knots and isn't stringy. That's why it is used for joinery, whereas whitewood gets used for studs, low grade floor planking, rafters, etc

 

[^woody^]

Southern Yellow Pine is stable and knot-free

 

[mrrusty]

If you're painting it I'd use MDF

 

[2020c]

If you're painting it I'd use MDF

Yes but can you tell the difference from painted mdf to painted timber?

 

[2020c]

If you're painting it I'd use MDF

Yes but can you tell the difference from painted mdf to painted timber

you need a 1/2 inch router at least 1300w preferably more than 1600w
you need to get the Ballance right ---lower power means slower feed rate but too slow you get burning

The router I have is 1/2 inch although it's a cheaper version since I wouldn't use it that often. Got it in screw fix.

 

[2020c]

Yes. Whitewood is often pretty knotty and can be very stringy - joinery grade redwood is much clearer of knots and isn't stringy. That's why it is used for joinery, whereas whitewood gets used for studs, low grade floor planking, rafters, etc

Where I am it's difficult to get joinery grade timber. Only red or white deal you call it although some of the planned timber doesn't look to bad.

 

[2020c]

I found this reversible router bit very close to what I need. I might just go for this one and some planned 5x1 and see how I get on. TBH, I think they will be ok. I'm not thst fussed about them being exactly the same and who even looks at kitchen doors for all them to be exact anyway.

 

[big-all]

the angle will be half at around 22.5 compared to 45% and you wont have an around 4x8mm step so quite a visual difference that may be reduced by a bit off around 4x8mm planted on ??

 

[foxhole]

Yes but can you tell the difference from painted mdf to painted timber?

No, but mdf tends too have a better finish .

 

[Deleted member 174758]

No, but mdf tends too have a better finish .

Except for the edges, which can be a problem to seal. I'm sure @opps can advise better than me about this. If using MDF to take a profile it is better to use MR-MDF because any profiles machined in it are far less woolly. TBH red deal will give a crisper profile than MDF

 

[mrrusty]

TBH red deal will give a crisper profile than MDF

Although MDF is often a go-to for making doors for cabinets because of stability, I completely agree with @JobAndKnock - you will get a crisper edge using softwood. Perhaps softwood for the frame and MDF for the panel? For the amounts needed for a few doors you will/should find if you visit the merchant you can select some pieces that you can cut virtually knot free sections from.