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Worktop/cabinet depth alteration.

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by trialscot, 20 Nov 2012.

  1. trialscot

    trialscot

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    Hi,
    With 570mm deep cabinets plus 20mm doors and using 600mm worktop, there is (obviously!) only 10mm of worktop overhang at the front of the cabinets. It doesn't look quite right.
    The simple solution would be to take off 10 or 15mm from the cabinet sides to let them sit back a bit. They're wickes units with a 65mm service void at the back.
    Before I start cutting, is this a normal sort of thing to do?.
     
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  3. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    No. If you want deeper tops then the way it's done is to either get a 625mm deep top from Howdens or to get a breakfast bar top from another worktop supplier and rip to the required depth. Much easier. In any case, if you are reducing the service voids where are your pipes going? Also how do you intend to deal with the wall they are going against being less than straight? (and have you even checked with a string line?)
     
  4. foxhole

    foxhole

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    You can get even wider 650mm, 665mm wide tops, other sizes also available.
     
  5. Harbourwoodwork

    Harbourwoodwork

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    No your not doing anything wrong ,your just stuck within the constraints of mass produced kitchen's,usually designed to have work top's flush with drawer fronts, to be fitted in a world without wobbly walls.
     
  6. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Would that be cloud cuckoo land or never, never land, then? :rolleyes:
     
  7. trialscot

    trialscot

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    Many thanks for all that, glad to hear the problem is just a consequence of not being able to afford a bespoke kitchen.
    Just for info it's in a new build extension and having done most of the work myself the walls are flat and vertical, and due to good planning there is only one vertical waste pipe and two vertical ½" plastic water pipes behind the cabinets on each of two walls. Electrical cables come straight out the wall to sockets inside the cabinets.
    The worktops I want to use are jolly expensive (for me anyway) Duropal items with curved ends to match the curved end kitchen units. This worktop is only available in 600mm. I've seen some laminate worktops cut into a curve like this but never yet seen one that didn't look pretty awful.
    Haven't bought the Duropal tops yet, just sized up with an old offcut but I'd definitely prefer a bit more overhang so it looks like it's saw time.
    Thanks again. ;)
     
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  9. foxhole

    foxhole

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    If you have any free standing appliances cutting back unit depth will make them stand proud.
     
  10. alan333

    alan333

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    If you're tiling a splashback remember you could leave the worktop nearly 10mm out from the wall and never see the gap.
     
  11. trialscot

    trialscot

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    Thanks alan333, that's a good thought. I could rip a couple of lengths off an old top to space the worktop away from the wall before tiling, or maybe use an upstand.
     
  12. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Equally an out of straight wall could rob the OP of 10mm........
     
  13. trialscot

    trialscot

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    [/quote]having done most of the work myself the walls are flat and vertical,
     
  14. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    If I had a quid for everytime I'd been told that........ Incidentally, what's so special about the curved units/worktops?
     
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