worktop joining bar

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Hi guys.
Got two bits of worktop that have a square edge profile.

The corner join bar I got has a 6mm round radius on one side. But doesnt go over the square edge or worktop.
Ive been trying to find one that I can use to join two square pieces together.

I got one from sf but didnt work.

Anyware I can get one.
I was going to clear culk the 1mm joint and use colour fill to conceal it.


P.s has to be black
 
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Thanks foxhole. That looks ok. The t shape. Will fit both sides.
Good price to. B&screw charge £8 for same make ones .
 
But it's not t shaped both sides, does it still have a radius on one side, it says so in the title description
 
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You don't normally use jointing bars with square edge worktops. If they butt together neatly, then you'd use pva on both edges, and bolt them together underneath. They should then be tight enough together not to need any filler. can you bolt them together underneath, or are they just being pushed together.
 
Thanks doggit.

They havent been routed for bolts (long story). So I bought worktop joining plates (square plates with screw holes in them)

One bit still has the laminate on it. The other cut.
If I pva or clear silicon it. Do I then use colourfill on it to hide the line ?
 
It very much depends on the quality of the gap, but I think the colourfill acts as an adhesive as well as gap filer.

A picture would help.
 
Thanks owendiy.
That bar is for joining two pieces of straight together.

One I want is a corner but each face is square.
It has no radius. Will post pic tonight
 
I think that one would do you if you mean along the corner side edge (not a 45 deg cut). The tang of the T is set back from the front edge on the wickes ones so you can bend the front to fit round whatever edge profile you have. It would get pretty close to a square edge with some malletting. You'd need to cut into the return side at the front to accommodate the buried front edge. Or cut the strip back so you have strip on the top surface but the front edge is a butt joint.
 
You could get a chippy/kitchen fitter to do a proper joint £50-£70 and will look much better than a jointing strip.
 
Tryed to get a guy to mire it from myhammer but costs were over £ 150.

Heres some pics of worktop. Theres small 3mm gap cause units out .
 

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Try this; Go to your local Howdens or Benchmarx or Magnet and ask for the number for a good kitchen fitter ask for a couple of numbers.

Ring said fitter and say you got a butt joint that needs bolting up, but the three bolt holes need routering. You could supply bolts and color fill about £15.00 all in plus labour of £50 or so.

The 3mm as the units don't run square can be lost quite easily with a bit of jiggery pokery with the tops, I presume you tiling or having glass or the like.

A good fitter will router off the laminate edge to the adjoining worktop so you will have a perfect butt joint chipboard to chipboard, not chipboard to laminate.

£150 takes the p*ss quite frankly.
 

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