WSP Gold SB5 Circulating Pump

[richchad]

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for this pump, it needs to be the exact same pump as space is very limited, cant be any wider.

The only information I can see written on the pump is SB5, RPM 2850, W - 67 and Class F....

The pump is used to circulate my domestic hot water around the house, it was fine this morning but after turning off water supply to re route some pipework then after turning on water and running taps to remove air it isn't circulating water, running okay but doing nothing, gets very hot, have tried bleeding air from pump spindle but no change, looks like I need a new one...

Update:
I can find a Sb 5 pump on the Wilo website but it isn't a gold one and the connections are attached to the size and not on the top (12 Clock position) like the one I have..

 

[Boilerman2]

Grundfos UPS 15/50 BRONZE -Straight Swap, availible from most merchants expect to pay about £200+Vat (cos of the expensive bronze) DO NOT BE TEMPTED TO FIT A STANDARD HEATING PUMP!!!

 

[richchad]

Thanks Boilerman2, I notice the Grundfos has the connection box on the side, I need a pump with the connection to the top or bottom as no room to fit between pipework.

I notice that the Wilo SB5 allows you to fit connection box in all 4 positions?

Whats the reason for not fitting a standard heating pump?

 

[richchad]

I still cannot understand why my Hot water circulating pump has packed up after draining and refilling the system..

If air had been trapped in the pump would this have messed it up, Have tried running it and sometimes it runs and sometimes nothing, has it got some sort of cut out, but it doesn't pump any water around the system now even when it is running?

Have removed the spindle plug to bleed it nothing much comes out, no air and little water, have also turned the shaft okay so not seized up..

If I do replace it how do I ensure the new one doesn't go the same way if air is trapped?

 

[Boilerman2]

You can undo the 4mm allen screws holding the pump head onto the body, you can thern rotate the head so the head has the terminal box in the correct position, (either side, on top, BUT- never underneth) make sure you tighten the screw up evenly afterwards

 

[richchad]

Thanks for that, so should be able to do a straight swap, still puzzled why it has packed up..

And now on top of that one of the inline isolator valves is leaking from around the screw that you turn 90 degrees, any way to stop it other than replace it?